Seal where rear prop shaft meets diff is leaking

Hey guys

My '95 Disco 1 has a leaking seal where the rear prop shaft enters the differential.

This does not LOOK like a difficult thing to replace, but what the hell do I know.

We are desperately trying to keep this thing on the road for at least one more year before getting rid of it -- there are just too many things wrong with it at 197K miles for it to be worth repairing.

Oh yeah, the rubber coupler thing is cracked too and this looks like a great time to replace it. Looks like there are three bolts holding the rubber thing to the prop shaft and three more bolts holding the rubber thing to the stub axle in the diff.

I think I am supposed to remove the prop shaft from the diff then remove a nut in the center of the stub axle (pinion I guess it's called) to remove that flange so I can get at the seal? The official service manual doesn't cover replacement of this seal -- they cover rebuilding the diff which I have no interest in doing at this point.

How difficult is this job really?

Reply to
Anthony
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Awesome now I'm really confused.

I guess there are two axles out there -- the Rover type and Salisbury?

Sounds like on the Salisbury I can NOT just replace the pinion seal because the nut holding the flange on sets the pinion bearing preload and if I remove it I can't set it right without doing a rebuild?

Rover type uses shims or some such to set preload (don't understand how this works) and it's safe to remove the flange nut to replace the seal?

What does my USA-spec '95 Disco 1 have under it?

Reply to
Anthony

Anthony Hi,

Discos were fitted from the factory with only the Rover type rear axle.

Not a so difficult job to replace the seal.

Take care Pantelis

Reply to
Pantelis Giamarellos

The only thing that may puzzle you is the stepped location pin that is Loctited (I think) into the drive flange and conceals the flange retaining nut.

I also seem to recall having had to drop the entire propshaft as there was insufficient collapse to allow the rubber doughnut to be removed.

Reply to
Dougal

Can you explain this in more detail? I'm having trouble picturing it.

Reply to
Anthony

You have mail - if you addy works!

Reply to
Dougal

Thanks! A picture is worth -- you know.

Anyway -- so that is pressed into the flange eh? Looks like the pin has an ID through it -- does that 1) go all the way through and 2)have threads on it?

If it is threaded and goes through, what's to stop me from threading a long bolt through it to push it out? Or, use a piece of pipe/socket wider than the pin, put a fender washer over the top, place it on the flange, and thread a bolt into the pin through the washer and pipe/ socket so that the assembly pulls the pin out?

Reply to
Anthony

I think so - so long ago that I can't remember.

No

Mine didn't provide much resistance: it almost fell out. I think that you'll be able to tap it (as in hammer) sideways to loosen it. The outside diameter doesn't need to remain pristine: just free of sharp edges.

It's Loctited in position, I think, and that will break down with the application of a little heat.

If all else fails, do as you suggest and run a tap up the inside and use that for whatever extraction method you wish to employ. Before you mark the bore you could try filling the bore with grease and using a tight but not too tight fitting rod as a piston to hydraulic the pin out.

Reply to
Dougal

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