Series V8 and the Battery tray.

As I lay under Percy getting hyperthermia today I wondered if the Battery tray will need to be cut away to fit in the V8.

Also should anyone know who's been there and done that... My transferbox is mounted 4 inches further back to accomodate the Jag lump. The bell housing of the current Jag lump finishes right above the crossmember.. is this likely to be too far back? I know that the manifolds sometimes foul the bulkhead but is this only at the narrowest point? I've heard in the past of people cutting holes in the bulkhead to change spark plugs I guess I'd also fall in to this catagory.

Anything else I need to know for the fitment of the likes of sd1 v8's and P6 V8's? Such as alternators needing relocation?

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D
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My experience was with fitting a RR V8 into a SWB Series III so pick from this what you will........

I did away with the battery tray altogether and relocated the battery to under the LH front seat. To get it in there I also did away with the toolbox thingy under the seat, cut the top off an old fuel tank and bolted that up onto the outriggers in its place. You'd need to have a military spec chassis to do that though (they have the extra fuel tank outriggers on the left-hand side) or weld on either a tank outrigger or something else that you can hang the tank/battery box on. I didn't think the standard toolbox thingy was deep enough for a battery.

The gearbox in my V8 88" sits in its usual place with modified engine mounts to put the donkey where it needs to be. I haven't had to cut any holes in the bulkhead to be able to get at the plugs (although I admit that the rear ones, particularly on the left side, are a bit tight to get to). Of course, the bulkhead and tunnel did have to be modified. IIRC both footwells had to be shrunk slightly and the centre "bulge" deepened and extended. The heater matrix has to be moved over too to avoid fouling the inlet elbows (assuming carburettor V8 like mine), which in turn means you have to move the blower motor over a bit and also means you have to blank off half the bulkhead hole. Mine still puts out plenty of heat though, and the cab is like toast once the engine and exhaust pipes get warm anyway!

I had to move my alternator from the left side to the right side (the engine came out of a Range Rover) and there was a bit of a faff finding a suitable mounting bracket. My donor didn't have air-con so maybe the air-con pump mounting bracket would be suitable (my alt now sits where the air-con pump would be).

Add a remote oil filter and, if you're using the standard series radiator like I have, an electric radiator fan. I could have moved the radiator forward and used the viscous fan, but I wanted to retain the Series III front. For the exhaust I had to extend the down-pipes just after the manifold connection but the manifolds themselves certainly don't foul anything.

Steve

Reply to
Steve

When we put a V8 in our series 2. I kept the battery in the engine compartment in the original place. The alternator we moved from the left (as if sitting in drivers seat) to the right and made up a new shorter bracket so it cleared the battery. I didnt want the battery under the seat as I wanted the space for tools etc. In our V8 90 I would love the battery in the engine bay but I cant see where it would fit. Off the shelf exhaust for 88" with a V8 from Jake Wright

Richard

Reply to
Richard

Cheers Steve and Rich!

Richard, what manifolds do you have, I understand that there are different Rangie ones any ideas which I'd need. I fabricated Percys current exhaust but I'd much prefer an off the shelf option for this time around.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

The V8 in the series II was from a rover P6 and the manifolds were quite large. I swapped them for range rover manifolds (i think from about 1979) as they were 'flatter'. you need these due to the chassis rails. On our v8 90 I have put rimmer tubular manifolds on, must say tho i'm not very impressed with their system.

Richard

Reply to
Richard

On or around Fri, 17 Dec 2004 23:09:48 GMT, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

I was told that you need stage1 V8 manifolds to get a V8 into a series. Mind, I was told the same about getting it into the 110, which was crap - ranger rover manifolds, down pipes and Y pipe interface perfectly with the

110 exhaust system.

The series might be tighter on space though.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I'd heard that in the past too but the concensus of the research tends to suggets Rangie manifolds. Then again the Pros said the Jag lump wouldn't fit. Any more Stage 1 parts and I'll come over all guilty ;-)

Lee D.

Reply to
Lee_D

Hi all if its of any help I have put a V8 into a SIIA and used the normal Range Rover V8 as it came out of the Rangie and with the original exhaust manifolds ( 1973 ) and had no problems there was a very slight touching of the corner of the footwells but with a plasma cutter and some steel plate it was sorted out but we are only talking about an inch or so. I used a 101 bell housing with input shaft so I could keep the 4 speed Rangie g/box with overdrive, the exhaust y pipe would have fitted but because I used the shorter bell housing I had to cut it about.. All this and I kept the steped in front panel with headlights and the rad just behind that and a fan on the v8 waterpump, quite chuffed with the end result even if I say so my self which I do !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The bat I moved to the passenger side seat box and made a new base which was about 5 inches deeper to suit the battery..

Rich

Reply to
Rich

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