Sheared stud

This is a 19J TD engine.

The problem is a bolt (that has sheared) for the water pump that bolts through the aluminium housing that covers the timing belt. It bolts into the engine block.

I've still got that remnant of the stud stuck. Approximately 1mm showing! I've tried welding a nut on, then a piece of angle, anything to give me a bit of leverage, but with only 1mm of stud showing I can't get enough penetration on the weld.

I really don't fancy having to dismantle the front of the engine.

Are there any stud extractors people would suggest?

I don't fancy drilling it out as I have at least 50mm plus to drill through and keeping that straight in an 8mm stud will be a nightmare....

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter
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On or around Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:34:46 +0100, puffernutter enlightened us thusly:

Keep on with the welding. What I've done in the past is to weld a blob onto the end of the stud, then grip that, and when it falls off, repeat. Eventually, you'll get heat into it and make it come loose.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

I'd go with Austins suggestion at least give it time to work btw when its still good and hot a good dribble of penetrating oil will suck into the hole as it cools which can only help. I did buy a set of extractors but bottled out - drilled the buggers and retapped. They are cheap enough to have on the off chance

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Derek

Reply to
Derek

If that should fail then why do you need to go in 50 mm?

I'd have thought that 15 to 20mm .... hole and at worst a case of helicoil if it all goes pete tong. More likely to come out next time then.. either with or without the helicoil as the case may be.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

In practice you tend to have to drill the whole length of the stud, I've often found (on boilers rather than engines) that the drilling gradually loosens the stud and eventually winds it in, I want to acquire a set of left hand twist drill bits just for this reason but they are too expensive compared with normal ones.

I've had very varied success with plunge welding a nut on a small broken stud.

AJH

Reply to
AJH

I've got some of those and so far I've found them to be as much use as my nipples, highly over-rated. I had a fairly lightly torqued stud break off due to me setting up an impact wrench wrong, the LH drill bits didn't do owt, but a stud extractor insert whipped it out in no time. This was in the landy's drive flange (the bit that's on the wheel centre mating with the halfshaft splines).

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

Lee,

I probably wasnt't clear in my original post.

The water pump sits on the outside of an aluminium housing on the front of the 19J. The bolt passes through the housing (approximately

50mm deep) and threads into the cast iron block. To remove what's left of this stud/bolt I have to drill through 50mm of bolt in the aluminium housing then whatever depth the thread is in the block. That's why I see drilling it out being very difficult. The alternative is to remove the aluminium case from the front of the engine (pulleys and belt for the diesel distributor, crankshaft and valve timing all need removing) then pull the aluminium case off the stud and I will have 50mm of bolt to grip.

The problem is that I am still learning at this and very nervous of losing the timing of the diesel distributor etc.(so I am loathe to disturb them!)

However it is looking like this may be the only option.

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

Phasing the engine isn't very hard to do honest !

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

In message , puffernutter writes

You many find that the rest of the bolts give enough of a clamping effect to make a seal.

This is a common prob at the front of 2.5D, 2.5TD, 200 & 300 Tdi engines as they get older. Many customers don't want to pay to strip the timing case off.

Good quality sealant.... a bit of luck... and regular checks on the coolant level.

Reply to
Marc Draper

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