Slight Coolant Loss (TD5 Defender)

I am suffering from a very slight coolant loss from my TD5 Defender. At worst it is about half a litre every month but it doesn't seem to be regular and is low enough to just top-up and forget.

BUT - is it the start of a more serious problem or just a minor pipe leak?

I cannot see any signs of fluid loss on visible pipes and rad-weld doesn't seem to stop the problem.

No contamination in oil or any signs of other than perfect running from the engine.

Every now and again I get a slight smell of coolant inside the Landy - could this be a hint that it is in the heater honeycomb?

I have replaced the pressure cap just in case that was faulty.

Any suggestions would be apreciated.

David

Reply to
henri-01
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There is no such thing as a "minor" leak, on an alloy headed diesel engine! Way too easy to warp the head if it overheats.

You wouldnt be the first to have that happen! And I doubt sadly, the last.... (I've personally had two go on me, over the 6 years.)

On older LR's, I'd suggest bypassing the heater matrix by re-routing or blocking off the hoses to it in the engine bay, leaving the heater matrix disconnected for a day or three. But I have no idea if you'd 'P' Off some computer somewhere doing that on a TD5. I've done that on TDi's OK in the past, but not a TD5.

Regards...

Dave B.

Reply to
Mr Dave Baxter

Reply to
mike hunt

Favourite place for a leak on mine is the bleed screw on the top hose. It has a screwdriver slot in the top and it's far to easy to use that, ignoring the serated edge that provides ample finger grip, and shear the threaded stem off the cap. Yes, I've done it but so did the stealers last time it went in for a service and they changed the coolant. You can get away with wrapping self amalgamating tape around the hose and over the cap to hold it in place and not leak...

Also had a leak from the radiator, you have to remove the cover over the top of the radiator/fan and peer down the small gaps each end.

Or maybe just a leaky joint, donno how easy it is to get at.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Look at the top right hose outlet on the rad, it will be leaking....

Reply to
Nige

Common spots to check are the screws in the tops of the tanks on either side of the rad. Lots of people nip them up way too tight or don't follow the thread when re-fitting the screw - thus cracking the tank. If they're leaking, unfortunately you're up for a new radiator. Check the air-bleed line from the LH top of the rad. It can leak or be cracked. Check the water pump, there's a small weep hole in the housing that you will see evidence of coolant from. Rear hose on the water pump. Top hose on the block (coolant elbow) where the temp sender is located. Definitely check the small hose behind the spin-on filter attached to the oil cooler. If you suspect the heater matrix, just disconnect the water lines and hook together with a joiner of some sort - computer doesn't know - and you'll be able to rule that one out. You should be able to see evidence of coolant from the bottom of the assembly, but getting your head in to look might not be easy.

Another note - if you want to see coolant leaks easily, use an Ultraviolet light. Same sort of thing that you check for AirCon leak dye with. Coolant will fouresce - much easier to spot a small leak this way.

Pick up a small UV torch off Ebay for a few dollars.

cheers, Craig, Qld.

Reply to
CraigB

And another common spot - the fuel cooler. The old style is a stainless looking cylinder bolted under intake manifold with coolant hoses out each end. This one is prone to leaking.

The new style is a small square block arrangement - much better.

cheers, Craig.

Reply to
CraigB

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