I have recently (600 miles ago) had the engine rebuilt on my 2.5 NA
110, I also had the clutch replaced. Everything was fine, but yesterday the clutch started slipping badly again. There is no oil seeping from the bell housing, so I don't suspect the crank seal at the moment, especially as this should be all reconditioned. Any other ideas of what could cause this before I attempt to get the work redone?
Did they fit a new pressure plate and bill for it or just the clutch plate?
My guess is the pressure plate is knackered. Or possibly the forks can (on
101's) wear ovals in the bell housing mounts. don't know if this is the same on the 110 you have. Mine had a "clutch kit" installed along with the other bits and bobs but I honestly don't know what that consists of.It's got to come apart by the sounds of it anyway :-(
Lee D
Tell us first what's actually been replaced and why.
Martin
Well the engine was rebuilt due to a cracked cylinder and while it was out I had the clutch replaced because it had previously been slipping, the mechanic did say the old plate had been contaminated and I had oil leaking from the bottom of the bell housing.
I havn't got the invoices to hand, but I believe it lists the same 'clutch kit' as mentioned above. I also have a bad oil leak from the top of the sump. if it could be related, but I think this is due to the lip around the sump being slightly bent out of shape by the crank bolts
In article , austin snipped-for-privacy@dsl.pipex.com writes
Hmm. Sounds like the engine's made of cheese. Given the cracked cylinder, that would presumably be Stilton...
Seriously though, surely it's the sump cover that's more likely to be at fault in that case? If it was clobbered at some point, that would explain it, more so than distorting the block.
Still, it's a new name for an old problem: "She's got a slight touch of Stilton block, Sir, but she's still good for another five hundred yards or so!"
Regards,
Simonm.
A lot of 300tdis leak badly from the sump. It will need fettling & re-sealing.
I wouldn't expect oil from a leaking sump to get INTO the bellhousing to contaminate the clutch, and certainly not oil from the rear crank seal after only 600 miles on a rebuilt engine. As you say it was slipping before, are you sure the master cylinder is adjusted correctly, or is there a problem with the with the position of the slave piston, rod, release arm or bearing not allowing the pressure plate to grip or allow for wear?
Martin
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