slow/sticking clutch

It is possible that the free play on the pedal is inadequate, so that the hydraulic pressure is not being released when the pedal is up. If it is an early slave cylinder, its adjustment could be incorrect (later ones do not need adjustment - check the workshop manual). Possibly, but unlikely to be something in the hydraulic pipe or hose acting as a valve.

Also, it could be that one of the pins in the tube transmitting movement from the slave cylinder to the release bearing has broken and is catching on the jagged end, but not always in the right place.

JD

Hi

Have you Looked at the Slave Cylinder it could be Lose or not Returning & Try Fluid Levels Maybe Try Bleeding check the Slave Cylinder seals Regards Skinty

Only if the slave cylinder piston is sticking in its bore and you'd feel that in extra free travel at the pedal.

Sounds like a worn driven plate, use it like this too long and the flywheel and clutch will be knackered.

AJH

On more than one occasion I've come across the flexible pipe being perished inside and causing a part blockage. As someone else said, make sure there's free play on the master cylinder or dismantle it and check the seals aren't swollen.

Martin

Or the plate sticking on the splines. The OP said he had to jump on the pedal to get the clutch moving after it had stood, unused, for a while.

Got a working pedal return spring? If not, the piston may not return sufficiently and there may be no clear path for oil returning to the reservoir.

Is there one? I thought the finger springs in the clutch pushed everything back. Could be wrong though.

It's a IIa so most certainly should have. It's a long tension spring mounted directly to the pedal in the footwell. The brake pedal has (should have) one too.

Even the later 90/110s (well 1996, anyway) also have a pedal return spring although it has developed into a big hairspring by then. The TD5 versions also seem to have this.

I'd hazard a guess that the spring-less 'solution' will not work for LandRover where there are multiple opportunities for lost movement in their design.

Seals dragging. Fit new seals, normally they go shortly after these symptoms appear.

At least it's cheap!

Just reminded me that. If it's still totally original then Series 2s started off with a return spring on the slave cylinder also and you had to actually adjust the free play occasionally, maybe it's still got this and needs slackening off? It was accepted practice to do away with this particular spring and leave plenty of free play on the rod to allow for wear whilst making the slave cylinder self adjusting.

Martin

Im not sure im going to have time to fix this for a while :( - but have just checked and fluid level is fine, but i dont have a return spring (did have once but dont now).

Though it is a 2A, the gearbox is a series 3 one, as is the master cyl.

How should the free play on the pedal be adjusted? I think i put the pedal right at the end of the master cyl actuator rod (it was loose).

I'll find a return spring for it and try bleeding it up and see what happens, then move on from there. The slave cylinder is much older than the master so will blame that first!

You need enough free play on the pedal to ensure that the piston in the master cylinder comes right back against the circlip. Book specifies 1/16" free play at the pushrod. JD