Sticking Series Starter

I'm having increasing troubles with the starter motor / circuit: the solenoid gives a good loud click, there is bright battery light and oil light, but silence from starter motor. Can happen when warm or cold. I recently replaced solenoid, and doubled the earth braid from the starter itself. Problem is intermittent - I sometimes rock in gear in case the starter motor is locked, sometimes I just wait, and it runs eventually. One of these days it is not going to!

If all electrics are OK (I will double-check there is current to starter when I can find someone to turn the key for me), what is next step? Presumably repair or replace starter motor? Is this straightforward?

thanks!

John London, UK

--

1980 Land Rover Series 111 109 Station Wagon + Dormobile mod cons 1964 Lambretta Li 150 scooter
Reply to
ChelseaTractor
Loading thread data ...

Update: There's definitely 12V across the starter terminals when key is turned.

Reply to
ChelseaTractor

Don't trust the earth on an old SIII. The short earth braid from engine to starter is probably the least likely to fail. Check the engine is not badly earthed itself. The longer chassis to sump earth connection was where I found the cause of my starter problems. I used a chunky jump lead to connect directly from the battery -ve terminal to a good bit of metal on the engine. The starter turned faster than ever before when I tried this. If everything works like that, it indicates that your engine is badly earthed.

Also have a good sniff after cranking (or trying to), the bad earth sent volts all over the place. On my SIII they returned via a clip on the air filter to the bodywork, it glowed red hot while cranking.

I now have an extra earth. It connects from the battery to a handy plate that supports the oil filler pipe to the side of the block. The electrics can appear perfectly fine when you walk round with a voltmeter and check your conenctions, all my problems occured under high current load. Everything would die and there were no circuits to check.

David

Reply to
DavidM

We can assume the petrol engine, the diesel starter is somewhat different?

It's worth methodically working through all the cables and connections, especially earth straps. People have had problems when the engine-to- chassis connection is poor.

Starters of this age can be repaired fairly easily, but I don't know details. It could be the brushes/commutator, I suppose.

Reply to
David G. Bell

Interesting, thanks David, and worth remembering. I recently overhauled the earths when trying to solve similar troubles a couple of months ago

- which in the end I put down to the ignition solenoid, which I replaced.

If and when the problem returns I'll try a jump cable direct from starter earth terminal to battery neg, since I know there's good positive connection.

Reply to
ChelseaTractor

With a good voltmeter you can detect the voltage drop across the ends of a cable carrying high current. So a few millivolts across the battery- chassis earth-strap tells you that there's a high-current circuit going somewhere. Voltage between starter-body and battery-negative should be similarly low. If it isn't, your bad contact is on earth-side.

Be careful if you want to check something you can only reach from under the vehicle -- you are trying to start the engine to do the check.

Reply to
David G. Bell

I can report it's 'cured' with a sharp hammer blow while turning key, and there is a bit of a clatter when it turns again. I fear it's a damaged ring gear...

Reply to
ChelseaTractor

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.