1. Home
  2. Land Rover 4WD vehicles
  3. Stupid design, Haynes manuals. and April monsoons.

Stupid design, Haynes manuals. and April monsoons.

On investigating the rubbing sound from my 110, I found that my rear disc had shrunk to the thickness of a cd in just over a week. Nip down to Craddock's. get the parts and an hour should see it done. Or at least that's what I thought! Which idiot at Land Rover decided to put one of the retaining bolts for the calliper half an inch from the rear spring?

I've been on it all afternoon in between getting pneumonia from what the met office so quaintly described as light showers and trying to make sense of the Haynes manual, which cleverly doesn't show you which bolts you are supposed to remove.

'Remove the two bolts holding the calliper in place.' Sound easy when you read it, but whoever writes these manuals should try it in the pouring rain with a bloody great coil spring in the way! Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes
Loading thread data ...

Try using a combination of different length 3/8 drive 'wobble end' extensions with a step up to 1/2 inch fine toothed ratchet. Fiddly but do-able. Use threadlock when refitting.

Alan Brown

Reply to
Alan Brown

And when one snaps you have my full sympathy , I can lend you the t-shirt. Although I don't recall the spring being in the way on the rangie.

Cost me a fortune in tools and ended up limping to a local engineers. But I now have a helicoil kit and tap and die sets for all sorts of odd sizes.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Nor on my disco when I did my rear discs.

Peter.

Reply to
Peter Seddon

The early ones, such as for the Series Land Rover, are a lot better than the more recent ones.

Reply to
David G. Bell

Ditto on mine - I used a normal, shallow socket to get the caliper bolts off (they were a bit hard to get moving). Once off I removed the disc and hub, rebolted the road wheel, sat on the whole thing and used a deep socket/tommy bar/hammer to get the splined bolts loose that held the disc to the hub.

I will say that my brake pad wear dropped drastically after replacing the discs - almost made it worthwhile

Graeme

Reply to
Graeme

On or around Wed, 28 Apr 2004 20:14:25 +0100, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

bigger springs on the 110. I'm glad I've got drums on the back of mine, now... and to be honest it stops just as well as the disco with it's 4 discs. Mind, it does have genuine LR pads on the front end. But the 11" drums, with decent sized servo, provide quite a bit of braking.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I have a hatred for those repair manuals. I was an aircraft mechanic in the US ARMY and had to deal with manuals quite a bit. When I got out of the service and bought one of those manuals for the car I had I lost all respect for Haynes. There is no detail and they are so vague that it's ridiculous.

Joe

Reply to
joe dzurinda

I think the problem could be caused by the fact that my 110 owes more than a bit of its make up to the discovery which provided the engine. I also fitted non-self levelling springs last year so they may be bigger. The problem lies not so much in the proximity of the spring, but more in the angle of the lowest coil, so it looks like I'm going to have to remove the spring to work on the bolts. It doesn't help that they seem to be Torx bolts, which sort of restricts me to certain spanners.

Full of optimism this morning, I bought a replacement disc for the other side as well, but someone else can have the pleasure of fitting that!!!! John

Reply to
John Stokes

On or around Wed, 28 Apr 2004 17:09:37 -0400, "joe dzurinda" enlightened us thusly:

sadly, Haynes manuals used to be quite good. They're getting increasingly useless.

one of the best workshop manuals I've ever seen was the genuine Reliant one we had for the Reliant Regal 3/25. Where most books say "unbolt " this one said "remove the 6 7/16"A/F bolts securing " and similar. Which was incredibly useful.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

They're not Torx, just 12 point allowing a 12 point socket additional purchase.

Reply to
Alan Brown

On or around Thu, 29 Apr 2004 06:55:15 +0000 (UTC), "Alan Brown" enlightened us thusly:

probably 13mm 12-point. They put 'em on bolts which would otherwise have a

19mm hex head, I've yet to be convinced that they're better, except in cases where access is so restricted that there's not room for a 19mm socket to fit.
Reply to
Austin Shackles

(snip)

In my view the only real advantage of the rear discs is that they are self adjusting. You are right about the effectiveness of the drums - leave them unadjusted until they stop working and you will realise how much they contribute when they stop working! The only complaint I have had about the braking on my drum braked 110 is that when unloaded it is capable of locking the rear wheels first - which can be dangerous, but has nothing to do with whether they are drums or discs at the back. Maybe it is my driving style, but I have never had any complaints about the brakes on my 2a 109 either - when in good condition (as they are at the moment) they greatly exceed the requirements for the annual test, although certainly the pedal pressures are higher than on the 110. JD

Reply to
JD

In article , JD writes

I didn't have any problems with my IIa 109 brakes either, other than reducing momentum (expensive momentum too at 12 MPG!).

Reply to
John Halliwell

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.