Thinking about buying my first LR

Hello, we're looking at a used 1998/50 year anniversity with 81k. It's a private sale. Can someone give me some questions and checks one can do during the inspection?

Thanks!

Reply to
rottyguy70
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One other thing. Our next car needs to have some towing power for dragging around some general equiptment that we occasionally rent to work on our property (large chippers, etc.). How does the power/tranny compare with, say, a 3/4 ton pickup truck (f-250, etc.)

Thanks!

Reply to
rottyguy70

The 50th is a great car, refined by Land Rover or commercial vehicle standards, but not by car standards.

They all leak water - usually into the footwells and above the front doors into the inside - this because the bodys are difficult to seal and there is a gutter on the inside on the roof beneath the headlining. So look for any staining or water damage on the headlining/upholstery/carpet.

The car is also over-geared as standard - some people say for the American market, others because the gears they used were quieter. If it has had the 1.411 transfer gear ratio conversion (as many have) the gears will whine but it should not be intrusive. Also make sure that the stubby low range gear lever will move between low and high ratio.

The gear change should be quick and smooth - if there are any thumps or bangs when shifting there is wear in the transmission or driveline - walk away! Also check the driveline by taking the car to 65mph and apply/back off the throttle. This will also reveal 'shunt' in the driveline - any slower and the auto-box will mask the shunt.

Little oil leaks are to be expected from the engine, but if the top of the engine is oily beware - it is an indication that the breathing system is not working properly due to irregular maintenance. Listen to the engine too - if you hear a regular tapping it also indicates wear in the camshaft and tappets caused by age/and or irregular servicing. The V8 engine is very heavy on it's camshaft - at 80,000 miles it will need replacing soon - budget =A3500- for this. Even a light tapping is a warning of this! Take a small torch to take a peek into the top of the engine with the oil filler cap off the colour should be light golden or lighter - any darker - walk away, it will need an engine rebuild.

The service history is very important, a missed service will damage a V8 engine. Also check the filler cap for emulsion or 'mayonnaise' - this indicates a head gasket or even worse a leaking cylinder liner (the block is aluminium, the liners steel). Ask the seller - 'how often do you have to top up the radiator?' - 'has the car ever overheated?' - and if the answer is once a month or more and yes - walk away!

On the road test make sure you run the nearside front wheel over a few potholes on the test drive, if the steering wobbles violently you know you have bushes, dampers and swivels to repair/replace. If the steering is inaccurate and the car requires correction - it's worn, Land Rovers did not leave the factory like that!

The ride is firm compared to a car - that's normal. If the ride feels harsh and bouncy (as opposed to hard) - that's the dampers at fault. If heavy duty dampers have been fitted to a 90 the ride becomes harsh, even uncontrolled.

A little bit of electrolytic corrosion is normal on the door bottoms where the aluminium meets steel. This shows up a bubbles in the metal and is caused by road salt reacting with the steel and aluminium. Unless the skin is holed it's just cosmetic and can be treated. Also check the body carefully - the cappings and fixings corrode, e.g. look at the screws that fix the doors to the body - if they look crusty it indicates that the car might have had a hard life. Also look at the rear chassis crossmember, flaking paint is OK, but anything else is going to cost =A37-800 to replace - very important if you're towing heavy loads. Also it's really important to check the bulkhead (between the front wing and front door)- this is made of steel and rusts - check above the door mirror mount for flaky metal - on a car of this age it should nit be rusty, if it is - walk away.

As a tow car it's awesome! Maybe a little bouncy because of the short wheelbase, but perfectly man for the job of towing up to 3.5 tonnes.

Happy looking!

Reply to
Landylover

I towed a >2t trailer with a 3.5 110 for 2 years, it was the best tow vehicle I had and I regret letting it go. I imagine that a 200 or 300 will be fine, although the older 2.5TD 90 I also used suffered a bit towing every day.

Reply to
Danny

wow. thanks so much for the thorough response. one other question. i'm a bit of an amateur backyard mechanic. are the standard parts (water pumps, belts, oil filters, etc.) easily accessible and available at any autoshop or does one need to deal with the dealer for these things.

thanks again!

Reply to
rottyguy70

On or around 28 Mar 2006 07:12:54 -0800, " snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" enlightened us thusly:

We've a resident spares supplier in this group... name of Richard - Beamends LR spares; and there's always Paddock motors as well.

Sundry others, an' all.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Remember that we have international posters here ;-)

Huw

Reply to
Huw

No problems - you're welcome! I have have been looking myself (successfully this weekend) and own a 90 V8 already. The 4.0 V8 engine is really easy to work on and there are many suppliers who can sell you original spec and original equipment parts at reasonable prices - and will mail order all over the world! Land Rovers are easy to work on too with 'meccano' construction and long lived engine (40 years in production).

I hope the car is good - but don't be tempted to buy on the basis that

50th anniversarys are really rare. They are, but you'll always find half a dozen on sale - so if you're not sure......!
Reply to
Landylover

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