V8 Auto Disco

Hi All

Thinking of Buying a V8 Auto Disco mk 1/2 Good or Bad Idea also What should I Look For When buying

Regards Skinty

Reply to
Skinty
Loading thread data ...

"Skinty" wrote in message news:VeudnVedAvuB62PanZ2dnUVZ8tignZ2d@plusnet...

I had a series 2 V8 auto, it never gave me any problems at all, it just worked! No air suspension issues, no ABS/traction control issues, no nothing! Having driven plenty of autos and manuals, both V8 and disiesels, I would say the V8 is easily the better drive - not just on performance but the refinement is in another league. Things to check (based on umpteen vehicles I've had through the workshop):- V8 engines - Cam and follower wear at 80,000 miles plus. - The dreaded "cracked block" issues, easily spotted by a constant need to top up the coolant and no visible leaks. (I must add that this only affects a very small proportion of engines, yet it gets mass media coverage) TD5 engines - Oil in the injector harness (ought to be modded out by now). - Worn turbos. - Clutch/flywheel issues, again ought to have been modded out by now. - Clutch master and slave cylinders seem to be prone to failure rather early. Manual boxes - Graunching selections, baulking. Autoboxes - no issues as long as the oil & filter are replaced when due. Transfer box - whining means serious wear/problems as the series 2 is fitted with the "quiet" (LT230Q) gearsets. Axles - worn front swivel ball joints on high milers/abused vehicles. Propshafts - front prop on V8 can wear badly at rear double-jointed end. Some diesel owners also report premature front prop wear. Suspension - a lot of owners have reported issues with the rear air suspension, never seen a failure yet myself. Steering - steering boxes can leak, seems to affect TD5's more for some reason. Brakes - sticky rear calipers, the odd ABS sensor failure and the odd hub bearing failure causing the ABS problems. Body - no issues. Chassis - some models seem to corrode along the welds fairly quickly, but it seems to only be surface wit nothing further. Electrics - generally very good, a lot better than P38a rangies! Check seatbelt pretensioner harnesses for snagging on underside of front seats though. Trim - very good, no issues.

All in all, I reckon it's one of the better products of its day to wear the green oval, easily better than a series 1 disco, nothing like the same corrosion issues. I sold mine only because I sold my caravan, no other reason, or I'd still have it now. One other thing to bear in mind - if you are considering a V8 with a view to LPG'ing it, it MUST be a fully sequential gas injection system, nothing else will work on the "Thor" (Motronic) injection system.

Badger.

Reply to
Badger

A boot floor would be nice as Nige has observed when they rot they do it in spades along the seams, where the floor meets the supporting cross members and the area below the alpine lights .Other common rotting points are the inner wings not critical but pay special attention to the area against the front bulkhead if there is perforation at the top of the inner that is where it migrates to and that can be an mot failure ditto, the area below the battery . The rear crossmember the front body mounts which are designed to collect mud and the rear wheel arch. Look into the rocker chest if the visible rockers are black walk away somebody hasn't been changing the oil (you want to see a lovely golden colour) remove the water reservoir cap and run the engine fairly fast if there are lots of bubbles then bet the head gasket is blowing ( or worse) if its really bad watch the pretty fountain. Check all the doors lock and unlock correctly with the central locking if they do phone the Pope its a bloody miracle. I will disagree in part with the suggestion that a P38 V8 will cost next to nothing, if it has problems you will be spending a lot more cash at the dealership getting the computer reset each time it throws a tizzy I am still waiting for an affordable OBD set that will comunicate with the P38's computer before I take the plunge. Derek

Reply to
Derek

Badger

Any idea what a sequential LPG system would cost? I have a 1983 110 V8 running on a very simple LPG system (gas into the carb intake), which I am considering replacing with a Disco, and would ideally like another V8 running on LPG.

Thanks

Neil

Reply to
Neil

On or around Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:11:33 -0700 (PDT), Neil enlightened us thusly:

just a side comment - it's only the Thor engines that really need sequential, AIUI.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

*points at sig*.

I'm gonna have to sell this thing if I can't find a cheap way of gassing it :-(

Reply to
Pete M

On or around Tue, 15 Apr 2008 23:48:19 +0100, Pete M enlightened us thusly:

Well, OK, yours might. Sequential is, unfortunately, not cheap.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Fully fitted, around £1700 for an OMVL Dream setup.

Gems run nicer with it as well, but Thor is a must.

Badger.

Reply to
Badger

On or around Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:27:22 +0100, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

I'd not really fancy trying to plumb a turbo V8 in without it, either, although no doubt it could be done in theory.

I still reckon there should be more scope for liquid phase injection, although it seems slow to take off.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.