V8 cam, is Badger about?

Their one major failing as a company, IMO. Phoning them is preferable.

It's not in the catalogue yet, should be in next reprint, or so I am told. I never bothered chucking one up with a DTI yet so I can't quote timing figures or valve lift etc, but what I can tell you is that it was designed specifically for the 3.9 (and above) EFI engines, and allegedly works in the

3.5 EFI as well, possibly with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. It was designed to maintain idle torque and thus be suitable for automatics as well, the test figures their cam man quoted to me were as follows:- 253lbf.ft @ 3500rpm, 256.7lbf.ft @ 4000rpm. Quoted bhp increase was 25bhp, no rpm quoted. I would imagine that these test figures were derived with at least a free-flow air filter. Real Steel part number is DW252 and the cost, last one I bought, was £127.39. I've fitted this cam to 3 different 3.9 engines now (2 standard and one gas-flowed and fitted to a series1 with a Borg-Warner 66 Jag autobox!!), with good results. Badger.

Thank you for the info. Ours is a standard 3.9i in an automatic Discovery. You mention a free-flow air filter, ours runs on LPG and have read that you shouldn't use a free flow (I assume you mean a K&N type?) as the air velocity is too fast for the LPG to mix properly. Unless you know otherwise? Thanks again Richard

"Richard" wrote in message news:J4IUd.166856$ snipped-for-privacy@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

Hahahahaha, what a load of rumour-codswallop and claptrap! I really wish I'd had a fiver for every time I've heard that, the change in airflow velocity is only the same percentage as the increased volumetric efficiency (and hence more or less the power difference expressed as a %) of the engine with the new filter fitted. I'd guess that a simple filter change would never give an airflow increase of say, more than 5 or 6%. The reason a lot of people experience backfires on LPGwith cone-type filters is that they have them mounted in such a way as to allow them to be effected by ram-air weakening the mixture. If you are at all worried then replace the std filter element with a std-fit replacement element (you really won't get that much more flow than the std element regardless of type though), but make sure it is a dry element, not an oiled type, the oil particles can play havoc with the mass airflow sensing element (hotwire) within the mass airflow meter. A film forms on the hotwire, effecting its output for a given airflow resulting in incorrect mixture and normally flatspots in the power delivery. (For info, the element can be cleaned by placing meter in a poly bag with IsoPropylAlcohol and agitating gently.) FWIW, my own 110 (4.0V8, ZF4, LPG, no backfires) has a cone-type filter fitted inside a modified standard 3.9 airbox (fitted to the bulkhead across the rear of the engine), with the trumpet inlet cut back and a cold air inlet hose running to just behind the top of the offside headlamp panel, before this it had a pipercross cone filter sitting just behind the top of the radiator on the nearside, right onto the airflowmeter. The reason for the change was to give it a sealed cold-air inlet, cold air being more dense than hot and therefore more oxygen to burn more fuel in, for slightly more bhp. Probably not measurable, but it was an idea. Badger.

On or around Mon, 28 Feb 2005 21:41:55 +0000 (UTC), "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

well, yeah, but... I once had to retune the 110 after swapping the filter element for a different make.

which isn't to say that it won't work with such as a K&N on it, only that it needs setting up right for the filter; might possibly need a differetn size mixer if the existing one is marginal.