V8 musings.

Overfinch should have the answer as they used the Chevy 5.7 I checked the website but its only showing the current range I think theres something in an old copy of LROI will let you know. Derek

It'll probably cost you an excursion to Australia or NZ to obtain a P76 Leyland engine (or I might be able to have a dig around here and source you one and organise shipping it to you).. Same 3.5" bore, longer stroke for a capacity of 4.4l.

Details at:

Ahhhh. That's more like it, could I just use the crank and rods from a P76 motor? That could be fun.

Accompanied by the sound of a chisel on slate Derek, managed to produce the following words of wisdom

Ah, but putting an Overfinch Chevy lump in would mean losing the turbo and ruining the originality of this particular Rangie. I'd love an Overfinch one, but the W&P one is much, much rarer and I think better looking.

A turbo is a good idea in a Range Rover, as it doesn't compromise off roading ability or fuel consumption - when off boost.

Did you get those pics I sent you?

I'll have an ask around - it's been so long since I last played with a P76 that I can't remember the specifics (but I have a feeling the block is fractionally different internally.

Incidentally there's an MGB-V8 running round somewhere in the UK running a nicely warmed over P76 engine - it was a project of mine a few years ago.

If it came down to using a Chevy V8 I'd be looking at the 6.0 out of the current Monaro, Corvette et al. 400+HP straight out of the box.

What sort of boost are you running on the turbos? can you turn it up atall? This might mean a bigger/better intercooler, and you could look into water injection too (its very easy to do) how are the wastegates controlled? and what compression does the engine run?

From playing with my turbo saab, each further 0.1bar you can get the boost up feels like a lot when you are driving and it comes in (I've seen people reckon that another 0.1 bar is an extra 5-10 hp or so - which would tie in with the official saab hp figures). With water injection on my saab I am running it up to 1.5bar or so of boost and it feels like a rocket once it kicks in! (white knuckle death grip on the steering wheel!)

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The 101 Forward Control Club and Register

On or around Mon, 20 Aug 2007 23:45:02 +0100, "Pete M" enlightened us thusly:

hehe...

the later ones used an uprated ZF, 4HP24 I think, which has a bigger and better "A" clutch which is a common fail point. dunno what else it has.

Accompanied by the sound of a chisel on slate Tom Woods, managed to produce the following words of wisdom

at the moment it's running around 8-9 psi.

The intercooler is frickin' huge. Like crazy big. About 24"x 4"x 6". Way bigger than the ones I've had on some pretty exotic motors.

Wastegate is mechanical, no electronic rubbish. Compression is around 7.5:1

I'm pretty good with turbo stuff, had a Cosworth that was running 34 psi (spiked at around 39 psi)

I don't want to go too insane with the boost on this, it has a Zytec management unit to control advance etc and I don't know how clever it is.

No, the block height from crank to deck is greater to accommodate the length in stroke. Badger.

Any increase in stroke with the std bore gives a corresponding increase in vibration levels and an increasing reluctance to rev freely at higher rpm's. With the CR and boost you quote, I really don't think there's a lot more that can be done without seriously reducing reliability. What spec heads have you, there may be some room for improvement in the breathing??

ZF4HP22 has a service limit of 300lbft. 24 will take more, about 350 I think, but is an ECU-controlled box. You can build the 24's internals into a

22 case to allow the retention of the hydromechanical valve body (no ecu required) and use the 24 front pump and stator plate assembly for the larger "A" clutch, but you need parts from both boxes to do the job, and a torque convertor/drive-plate ass'y from a P38 4.6 Gems to do it. Not cheap solution, but the only readily available one. The 'box ends up 18mm longer than what's currently fitted, leaving you with the issue of either easing the engine forward 18mm or the transfer box backwards, with the consequent propshaft length issues. Front prop can be cured with qty 2 9mm machined spacers (one at each end) and 9mm longer bolts, but the rear prop has to be shortened and the gearbox mounts modified.

Hmmm.... to be honest, without some pretty major transmission work, you're probably at the limit for the half-shafts etc as well. Chrysler torqueflite 727 3-speed box from an early rangie auto will take the punishment, but you'll then be looking for a stronger transfer box, stronger propshafts and replacing the complete axles for something stronger as I doubt if even Ashcroft halfshafts/cv's will stand up to that abuse for very long. Badger.

You mean the ones of the W&P yes thanks what I meant about the overfinch was ...........per the question < Also, is there a stronger auto box that'll bolt in? As soon as I got the engine running properly it nuked the 'box. I'd have thought the ZF HP22 would have managed 320 lb ft easily enough, I was obviously wrong>..............

the gearbox they used if capable of taking the increased torque of the Chevy should be more than strong enough for a turbo 3.5 . So far I found the Bowler option standard box with aftermarket gears and bearings still looking. Derek

Accompanied by the sound of a chisel on slate Derek, managed to produce the following words of wisdom

Nice one old bean.

For now it's just going to get another standard 'box, if it murders that one then I'll have to look into the options of something beefier.

Ta though.