v8 thermostat

Yep, it should.

Can do, about 3.3mm (1/8" in old money) will suffice nicely. You don't want it too big or it'll cause slow warming up, by allowing corculation before the stat is up to temp.

Indeed, these engines can be terrible for gurgling coolant systems unless there is a vent bleed in the system to allow any air to get to the radiator and from there to the expansion tank. Badger.

It is a french made item. perhaps thats why its not right?!

I dont think i've heard someone say 'about 3.3mm' before. 'about

3.5mm' or 'about 4mm' (the sizes that drill bits come in) is more like it ;) I'll drill a small hole in one of those 2 sizes in it! :)

It used to kind of burp a bit once the 'stat opened up!

Ta badger! expect a post saying i cant get it started next! (since ive had the dissy off..)

Hmmm.... std drill bit sizes, 3.2mm, 3.3mm, 3.6mm, etc etc etc. 1/8" is "about" 3.3mm(ish), and there are still people who posess imperial drill bits! I just wish they weren't so expensive, I fancy a set of number drills.

Oh dear, have beer ready!. Spent over 3 hours yesterday removing/fitting/pondering/removing/stripping/assembling/refitting (etc etc, you get the picture!) a v8 dizzy, still can't fathom it out. Now, I've fitted quite a few over the years and timed up a lot for others as well, but this one defied logic. It's a DLM8 with integral amp, this one appears to fire when the lobes of the reluctor rotor are equidistant from the pickup - not just passing as you'd expect. Not only that, but if the rotor arm points to no.1 plug lead when you'd expect no.1 to be firing (just before TDC) it won't run! Move all the leads back one position so that the rotor arm is now pointing at no.8 lead (45 degrees away from where it really ought to be pointing) and it runs sweet as a swiss watch!!! TDC on the pulley was confirmed when the engine was built by myself last week so it's not that, and airgap etc is all good. It's got me stumped, but the motor (3.9 disco, manual, SU carbs) has just driven 140 miles from my place near Elgin to Perth on a quarter of a tank of petrol (confirmed by filling up!!!!!!!!!) so it can't be all that badly setup. Wish my 4.7 was as frugal! Badger.

It'll have a wee groove in the edge of the moving part that acts as a bleed instead of having a hole. A bit of careful inspection should find it.

IMO Badger's recommendation about the size of hole to drill is a little large - I'd use a 2.5mm drill bit.

On or around Mon, 9 Apr 2007 20:48:12 +0100, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

Odd, that. The DLM8 on the 110 was fine once I got the plug leads in the right places. Still surprised at how nicely it ran with about 6" of flexi rubber hose on the air intake and nowt else. can't be a lot wrong with the vapouriser, neither.

expect a rash of tatty early CSW panels on eBay in the next month or 2...

You should get out more, we have them in 0.1mm increments from 1mm, and we have some 0.1mm ones too, for drilling invisible holes, blind.

3.5 mm will give 27% more flow than a 3.3 btw, so Badger's comment about "too much" is very valid.

Tell you what, when you send those two sockets, send the stat as well ;-)

Steve

Err, half of my stocks are imperial, though we are supposed to be metric for the last few years.

Model engineering stores have full sets in HSS for around 40 quid from time to time. My dad bought a set from RDG in Leeds not long ago.

"115PC DRILL SET (HIGH SPEED) 115PC DRILL SET (HIGH SPEED) Ref: 12812HSS DRILL SET, CONTAINS 115 DRILLS, SIZE: 1/16" - 1/2" WITH INCREMENTS 1/64"

SIZE LETTER SIZE A-Z AND

WIRE GAUGE 1# - 60# IN METAL CASE

A PERFECT SET FOR THE MODEL ENGINEER

SPECIAL PRICE WHILE STOCK LAST'S

Price: £33.62 £39.50 Including VAT at 17.5% "

Please note, the apostrophe is their typo, not mine. I have not seen such a bad site for punctuation as their's. Steve

0.1mm??? Good grief, what on earth needs a hole that small? Be buggered if you dropped it, you'd never find it again!!!!

Adam

Air bearings. We are making a precision torque measurement thing. We drill 8 of the little swines in the bottom of a 12mm deep hole, through a 0.5mm wall. I'd put up a picture if I knew how to take one !

The drill IS backed up with a 1.5mm shank, but you can't actually see the drill with the naked eye, without really good lighting. And its only

0.7mm of active length. Buggered if I know how they make or sharpen them.

The company we get them from make one size smaller....

Steve

your workshop is somewhat more substantial than mine though! :)

it really does read nothing on the temp gauge though until it suddenly shoots right up as the stat opens and the top rad pipe actually gets some water in (it is soft until then).

I dont think my drill bits go down any further than 3mm. I did have smaller ones but due to the lack of roof or walls on my workshop i lost them when they blew away! (i'm not kidding!).

That's probably not correct.

Have a look carefully at the valve seat - you'll likely see a little 'chink' or dent in it and this performs the same function.

Julian.

On or around Mon, 09 Apr 2007 23:59:26 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:

I imagine you have to inspect it after every hole to make sure it's not broken off in the hole.

On or around Tue, 10 Apr 2007 00:42:59 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

3mm would do fine. The ones with the jiggly things in have a bigger hole but any significant flow shuts the jiggly thing against the hole. I think it's about equalising pressure more than owt else.

There used to be an urban myth: American company boastfully sent their smallest drill to Japanese competition, "beat that you...." they did. drilled a hole in the yankee drill, taped a thread in the end and sent it back with a smaller drill inside, the threaded end sealed with a grub screw.

We measure the length of the drill against a simple dial gauge, and we monitor the electrical resistance of the drill, when we make contact, we check the clock. When we've finished, we bring the drill back to contact and recheck the dial gauge.

Steve

Sounds awfully technical, would spark erosion not be a viable alternative?

We considered that, and laser drilling. The quote for laser drilling was over 2 grand - per block.

Our sparker wouldn't do it, but we are looking at electrolytic etching next time - the drilling process takes a week to drill 40 holes.

Steve

I'd truly hate to have to cost that, anyway or another. I'd be looking for a solution not requiring little holes!