V8i Disco keeps flooding help please

We have had our disco v8i for just over a year now and every now & then it refuses to start, so i took the plugs out & found them soaked with petrol, cleand them left it a while then it would start, this time it fires (on 3 or 4 cylinders) but will not start, I had a mobile mechanic come round he said it was the ignition module, bought and fitted a new on but still no go can anyone help please, i can be contacted on snipped-for-privacy@aol.com and live in norfolk

Reply to
Lbserve1
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I would imagine the module relies upon some sort of temperature sensor so that it knows when to shut down the cold start injectors. (I'm making a big assumption that Landrover V8i's have them.) It more likely to be a sensor. Had a similar problem on a Rover 820, sold it declaring the fault and Dave who pops in here now and again will remeber it was the same problem you have now.

Hope that helps. Keep us posted when you do find the end result.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

In news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m14.aol.com, Lbserve1 decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

I had an ignition module go on a 3.9 RR in Greece, which was irritating. Thing is, it'd run fine, then just not start.

Reply to
Pete M

On or around 28 Jan 2005 21:56:42 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Lbserve1) enlightened us thusly:

ignition modules (if it's the one on the side of the dizzy) from Halfords et al for about 25 notes.

mind, it's as likely to be a dodgy cold-start thing.

The disco injection uses hotwire, not flapper system.

which engine, BTW, and what age?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Which engine and, if you know, which injection system (engine size and year might give that info but it's better to know for sure !)

If it's a 3.5 with flapper injection (did they ever fit those to Discos ???) then disconnect the cold start injector (plug at the top, centre of the right hand side of the plenum chamber). This injector is used as a choke by the flapper system but is stupid enough to keep injecting loads of fuel until you get petrol dripping out of the exhaust ! Many people with this setup run with it permanently disconnected as it is the number one source of flooded engines EFi ! These setups also suffer from idle air valve problems where the valve fails to open so you are effectively trying to start the engine with no air and loads of fuel. Starting vehicles with this setup is also an art and you should never use short cranking periods - if it doesn't start in the first few seconds then keep cranking because every time you start cranking it will throw tons of extra fuel into the engine.

On the hotwire you can use it's "flooded start" feature by flooring the throttle while you try and start it - anything over 50 percent throttle and the ECU deliberately puts in too little fuel to help clear fouled plugs.

Anyway, assuming that the mechanic wasn't completely useless and correctly diagnosed an ignition problem rather than fuelling then....

I'll take a wild guess here and assume you have a circa 95, 96 3.9 EFi in which case you need to temporarily run a wire from the positive side of the coil to the battery +ve (preferably ignition switched but it doesn't really matter for test purposes - you may have to disconnect the wire to stop the engine though if you connect direct). If this cures the problem then it's 99 percent certain that your immobiliser spider has failed and is not supplying enough power for the coil.

The above test is worth doing regardless of year or model but certain model years are more prone to the spider problem. There are other causes for low voltage and/or current at the coil, the spider is just the normal one.

cheers

Dave W.

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Reply to
Dave White

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