Valve adjustment 300Tdi

Hi just a couple of brief questions.

When adjusting or checking the clearances of the valves on a Discovery 300 Tdi, should the engine be warm/hot or cold?

Second question, is the recommended gap .020mm on both inlet and exhaust valves?

I have serviced the engine before, oil, filters, et al, but never done the valves, so it's new territory for me.....

Thanks in advance for any help....

Reply to
Mark Fry
Loading thread data ...
  1. Rotate crankshaft until No.8 valve (counting from front of engine) is fully open.
  2. Using a 0,20 mm (0.008 in) feeler gauge adjust clearance of No.1 valve.
  3. Slacken locknut and turn adjusting screw clockwise to reduce clearance and anti-clockwise to increase clearance. Tighten locknut to 16 Nm (12 lbf/ft).
  4. Repeat operation for remaining tappets in the following sequence: No.3 tappet with No.6 valve fully open. No.5 tappet with No.4 valve fully open. No.2 tappet with No.7 valve fully open. No.8 tappet with No.1 valve fully open. No.6 tappet with No.3 valve fully open. No.4 tappet with No.5 valve fully open. No.7 tappet with No.2 valve fully open.
  5. On completion, recheck clearances and adjust as necessary.

Couldn't find any reference to temp so I assume cold.

Reply to
Jason.Goods

On or around Mon, 23 Aug 2004 13:47:11 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@washdown.net.nl enlightened us thusly:

I've always done it cold.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

to adjust tappet clearance the easiest way is to do it when on the back of the cam and then you just go through the firing order one cylinder after the other and adjust both intake and exhaust valves at same time on each cylinder .

if you get each cyl one after the other on the firing stroke , ie when NONE OF THE PAIR OF VALVES ARE ROCKING , then you can adjust both valves on that cylinder and then all you need is to go to next cylinder in the firing order and adjust that pair of valves and so forth .

its so easy , if the valves are rocking then you have to turn the engine over until both valves are back up and slack and neither of them rock when you turn engine over for a bit after. this then places the valves on the back of the cam where there is clearance for the valves to remain shut so the engine can fire . you only need to look at tdc mark on the harmonic damper on the crankshaft [ if it has one ] to determine the top dead centre position and then if the valves are rocking at this point just rotate the engine over until you are at the point where the valves dont rock .

you might think this sounds difficult but if you turn the engine over slowly a few times whilst watching the rocker arms moving youll see the 2 things i mean and can determine easily which stroke you are on and when to adjust the tappets .

the beauty of this way of doing it is that you can go through progressive cylinders and adjust them according to the the firing order and adjust each cylinder completely each time .

you can just start at any cylinder and go through them all one at a time , or pick out any one cylinder to do although this way will require you rotating the crank a fair few times :-)).

Reply to
M0bcg

On or around 23 Aug 2004 22:01:50 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (M0bcg) enlightened us thusly:

while I go along with what you say, the sequence in the HBoL as reproduced by someone in here recently works well on a TDi, and requires (IIRC) just 2 turns of the crank after you get to a starting point. Obviously, you can start mid-sequence, if you want, rather than starting at number 1.

and another tip for the 300TDi:

turn the engine by using a suitable socket (24mm, ISTR) and ratchet on the nut on the front of the alternator. It's far easier to get to.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

us

Thanks to all who replied I have checked on the feeler gauges, they are imperial / metric type, so the closest I could get to the required .20, was .206 which I hope will be fine, I also replaced all of the valve cover caps because 1 had worn totally away. Everything seems fine at the moment, well it started and ran ok and the obliglitory puff of smoke at start-up was absent, which I hope is a good sign.

Anyway thanks again.

Reply to
Mark Fry

Not from the HBoL though straight from the Land Rover manual.

Reply to
Jason.Goods

On or around Tue, 24 Aug 2004 22:39:26 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@washdown.net.nl enlightened us thusly:

It's in the HBoL as well, word-for-word. often the case for such things.

oh and BTW, those metric/imperial feeler gauges... they're imperial ones with metric writing on. how else do you get a .635mm one? Seriously, look at 'em in inches, they are (within conversion rounding limits, the same as the imperial ones.

25, 15, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 3, 2, 1½ IIRC, in thou, from memory.
Reply to
Austin Shackles

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.