What to look for in 90 2.25litre

this useful when i bought mine.

Hope this helps, Tom

I didn't think that a Defender was badged until 1991, when the (diesel) model had the 200TDi engine fitted ......... not sure about the petrol ........ Up until then it was just a 90 ........ not a Defender

On or around Fri, 22 Aug 2003 20:26:31 +0100, "Matt Cullum" enlightened us thusly:

some evidence of servicing, basically... the 2.25 and 2.5 petrol engines are pretty bomb proof if looked after, and it's not got enough power/torque to destroy the transmission... check the usual things about transmission (reasonably free of play and noise) and corrosion (bulkhead, mostly, but check the rear end of the chassis and the outriggers).

Being only different in their strokes, do the 2.25(5 bearing) and 2.5 share the same engine block (interchangeable)?

On or around 23 Aug 2003 19:34:33 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@indo.net.id (Hertriono Kartowisastro) enlightened us thusly:

dunno.

I do know that the 2.8 stroker kit is almost a new engine - they do use the same block, but modified and a re-worked head, new crank and new non-standard pistons.. so I imagine that the 2.25 and 2.5 petrols use the same block, yes.

Thanks Austin, but very curious to know which the 2.8 use the same block with. Is it the 200 or 300 Tdi ? Where can I get more info on this stroker kit ?

On or around 24 Aug 2003 21:41:05 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@indo.net.id (Hertriono Kartowisastro) enlightened us thusly:

no, this is a 2.8 kit for the petrol engine. Comes as basically a complete engine, as they have to modify the block to take the longer-throw crank. They also supply a re-worked head, which is, I think, gas-flowed. They claim more torque at 950 rpm then a 2.25 and more torque at peak than a V8... but it's not cheap. I rather fancied one for the 110, but in the end the V8+auto option won the day.

can't find a link for it off-hand.

did find this:

which is from an email responding to my enquiry about whether it'd be possible to buy the bits for a DIY job... I assume it means "block", nor "clock" :-)

Thanks again Austin ! "If" the 2.25 shares the same block with the 2.5 (while they have the same bore), then to achieve 2.8 they must have overbored the block(hence "to accept our new pistons"). Are ACR ? Is the 1359 UKP just for the block alone or including the crankshaft,conrods and pistons(short block)?

According to the Land Rover parts catalogue, the 2.25 and 2.5 petrol use the same block (they both supercede to ERR477)

Martin

--

1988 90 Td5 NAS Replica

On or around 25 Aug 2003 06:15:16 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@indo.net.id (Hertriono Kartowisastro) enlightened us thusly:

erm. I think they use the same bore, but different crank and pistons, I suspect the pistons are probably shorter or something. Not sure if they use standard conrods, though no reason in principle whay they shouldn't.

there was a bit about it in one of the mags a while ago. I could email you their email address...

I get the impression that the price quoted was for an exchange block, and new crank and pistons, but I may be wrong. It was ending up too expensive, so I never followed it up. I think ACR may be the company, yes.

Get a V8: -There's a negligable difference in fuel (in)economy but one hell of a lot more Ooomph!

The V8 (well set up) will return c12 mpg around town and 18-23 on a run

There really isn't much room for LPG, -well, there isn't much room for anything after converting to LPG

On or around Fri, 05 Sep 2003 23:23:11 GMT, Andrew Spark enlightened us thusly:

limited space for under-floor tanks, is your main problem. You can get a tank onto one wheelbox mind.

I see the model offered is a 2¼ mind, which is not a V8. economy on a 4-cyl will probably be in the 18-23 region more of the time...

4-cyl petrols are faster than NA diesel, and a good deal quieter. The engines are pretty bomb-proof, provided it's had *some* servicing and oil changes, and if it's low mileage, it shouldn't be a problem.

bulkhead rust is the most difficult thing to deal with on a 90, so check out the bulkhead carefully. Rear crossmembers rust and so do outriggers, but these are relatively cheaply and easily fixed. On a low mileage example, transmission should be fine - if it has loads of clanks and clunks when moving off or changing gear, then reject it. A good way to check is to move off forwards, stop and then move off in reverse. You'll always get some play in the transmission, but if you get a loud clank or clunk when doing that, there's more wear than is ideal, and more than a low-mileage one should have.