Wings and Spot Welding

Is the rear section of the wings spot welded to the bulkhead? If not , what are they spot welded to? If it is the bulkhead, do you have to paint body with wings already fitted?

thanks in advance

Reply to
Landy Man
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What sort of vehicle?

Reply to
EMB

It would help if we knew what sort of Landrover you are talking about. But assuming you are talking about the Series and 90/110/Defender, which all use the same construction - the wing side panels are spot welded to a right angle piece which is held to the bulkhead by several large hex head screws going into speednuts on the bulkhead. These are accessible from under the wing. JD

Reply to
JD

MY BAD... and apologies...DUH. Yes, it a petrol 1975 Series III 109" RHD. Thanks for the info - whew, that's a relief its not welded to the bulkhead.

regards, Oz

Reply to
Landy Man

Not that I'm sure how you would weld aluminium to steel of course.

Reply to
EMB

This company

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has a rod with this claim: Super Alloy 1 is a multi-metal, low temperature solder with a melting point of 350o. Its unique properties allow you to join copper, aluminum, brass, pot metal, white metal, zinc die cast, stainless, galvanized, pewter and steel in any combination. This rod allows you to join metals such as steel to aluminum, which welding instructors are STILL teaching can't be done.

Reply to
Landy Man

The magic word there is SOLDER - soldering is merely gluing 2 items together, welding is melting them and fusing their molecular structure together so they become one contiguous item.

Reply to
EMB

I think the word here is PEDANTIC

;)

Reply to
Landy Man

Well, the point EMB made is valid after all, solders to join most metals have been on sale in the likes of Tandy for a very long time. Nowhere near as resilient as welding, only good for temporary repairs or ornamental stuff in most cases.

Reply to
Duracell Bunny

yes , you're both right. I'm sorry

Reply to
Landy Man

Probably :-)

When your chassis needs rust repairs let me solder it up for you - I'm sure the result will be suitably strong and durable for it's intended purpose.

Reply to
EMB

Thanks babe - I should have guessed you'd be along to support me in due course. :-)

Reply to
EMB

No problem. Everyone is entitled to their point of view, it's just that some of us have formed ours through years of performing the task in question. If there's any more information you need don't hesitate to ask.

Reply to
EMB

Now how does the OP come up with a silly question like that and then quote all the technical crap?

Martin

Reply to
Oily

|| Duracell Bunny wrote: || ||| Well, the point EMB made is valid after all, solders to join most ||| metals have been on sale in the likes of Tandy for a very long ||| time. Nowhere near as resilient as welding, only good for temporary ||| repairs or ornamental stuff in most cases. || || Thanks babe - I should have guessed you'd be along to support me in || due course. :-) || || || -- || EMB

This sort of stuff belongs in alt.mutual.appreciation.society, not here :-)

Reply to
Richard Brookman

As usual, kind Sir, I'm flattered :)

We colonials must stick together.

Reply to
Duracell Bunny

I guess he did this...

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Reply to
EMB

Do I detect an air of jealousy? :-)

Reply to
EMB

I like that. Your handiwork?

Martin

Reply to
Oily

On or around Fri, 27 Oct 2006 05:18:31 GMT, "Landy Man" enlightened us thusly:

not really. Soldering is only ever as strong as the "glue". you can join steel, for example, by bronze welding, i.e. a fillet of bronze which is stuck to both of 2 bits of steel. However, it's only as strong as the bronze filler.

Welding, properly done, can approach the same strength as the original material, although most often it isn't.

You could stick alloy to steel with silicone sealer. The joint, however, wouldn't be one you'd want to trust your life to.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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