Hi, The local Series IIa I was after fell through, after he decided tha
he couldn't part with it. I have started looking on ebay, and wa wondering whether some of you Series owners would give your opinion on her She is too far for me to go and see this week. Basically - what do yo think!? Link i
thanks for your help
On or around Tue, 15 Aug 2006 05:41:27 -0500, Cymro Gwirion enlightened us thusly:
Bulkhead has been rather crudely repaired, which probably means it's buggered where you can't easily see - seller makes no mention of the repair.
interior seats are hardly a major selling point... the overdrive if good and working is a bonus though. not sure the K&N filter is worth making much fuss about.
the 20p hole is, from the looks of things, in the door post not the bulkhead
- that bulkhead looks iffy though - usual approach by the inept of making little patches to cover the visible hole.
considering that, I reckon it's overpriced, notwithstanding the overdrive - a bulkhead replacement is a big and expensive/difficult job, and once you get to the stage of patching 'em...
Thanks Austin. I did think that the bulkhead looked a bit 'rough'.
guess I'll just have to keep looking. If you don't mind - can I kee posting links to the ones on ebay etc that I see? I don't want to try anyone patience here - but would like to make sure I buy a good one!!! If tha is ok - I'll have a good look around ebay etc tonight - and list a fe candidates. Thanks again - and for your advice on the last question posed
Austin Shackles wrote
Speaking personally here.....
The repair and hole in the door pillar doesn't look promising. There's work waiting for you there. It sit's nicely, which is a good sign, but you *really* need to have a good look at the chassis. At best it's not going to be perfect unless it's been replaced.
You're never going to get a perfect example, at least not for silly money, so you've realy got to decide, after giving the chassis a really good look over, is this the motor for me - warts and all.
Richard
beamendsltd wrote
Thanks RIchard
In a recent post I gathered that Bulkhead and chassis are the two majo things to look for, and as I am unable to travel to see her befor bidding - I think this one might be a bit of a risk! I gather tha galvanized chassis is a big plus - which might be something to look for. Is ther anything rather than a description of condition I should look fo regarding the bulkhead? I think I will sift through ebay and maybe autotrade tonight and have a look for some more. I intend to post them here maybe you would be so kind as to look at a few and give me your opinion. think this would help me understand what to look for and how to spot nice one. Though I look forward to looking after her once I own her - don't want a major project at this time. Thanks again for your answer
A galvanised chassis is definately a good point! Even if they've made a complete balls of fitting it........
Look for patches on the top corners, as per the one we were looking at. Also look for patches on the door pillar. The door pillar isn't *too* difficult to replace, but it's not for the faint-hearted really, as some chiselling is required to break some spot welds. It does give a good clue as to the condition of the rest of the bulkhead though.
Patience is going to be a virtue in your search - there are good ones out there, but they are getting hard to find.
Richard
On or around Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:19:36 -0500, Cymro Gwirion enlightened us thusly:
Things to look for, when looking at an actual vehicle - top front corners (where that other one is patched), door posts, around the vents (open 'em and look under the vent panel) and footwells. All these are the places that bulkheads rot. Door posts are available as replacements, and not too hard to replace, so if you're sure the rest of the bulkhead is OK, iffy door posts are not necessarily a reason to reject a motor, but they are a reason to pay a bit less.
As you say, galv. chassis is a big plus point, but reflected in the price - it also means the motor has been rebuilt as they didn't come like that - and people going to the expense and trouble of a new chassis generally don't put a crappy bulkhead on it. Replacement chassis is almost always done by an enthusiast who intends keeping the motor as it's no way worth doing just to sell it, unless it's something fantastically rare.
points to look at on the chassis - rear crossmember, outriggers and the front ends where the front spring hanger is. You don't want to see rust holes, you don't want to see crappy repairs. bear in mind that any chassis with lots of patches on is suspect. Main frame tubes are not usually too bad, and if it's ONLY the back end, it's not too bad or expensive a repair - rear crossmembers, with or without extensions, are easily available and not very pricey - front legs likewise. however, if there are several of these wrong then the chances are the whole chassis is past its best.
Often you'll see several small (about 2") patches on a chassis - this is a sign of poor repair work. If you just patch the hole you can see, then another hole is not far off... when you get a hole in a chassis due to rust, the whole area is suspect. I'd far rather see a nice big patch which runs from top to bottom of the chassis and about a foot long, than half a dozen little ones.
Naturally, a chassis with extensive repairs, even if sound, is not as good as a tidy unrepaired one.
BTW, don't worry about posting links. You'll likely find that if any of us are nearby, someone will be able to come with you for a second opinion on a motor, as well.
Austin Shackles wrote
Thanks very much again. Your advice is greatly appreciated. I'll pass o
this one I think, but look for a few other options. It would be easie if I would settle for a 90 - but I have set my heart on a Series fo years
Oi, Stop saying IIA boxes are stronger, in what way Austin?
Martin.
I would nt consider myself to be a Landrover expert by any means , but it looks like a series 3 to me.
Certainly the bulhead, sreen hinges and door hinges do any way!! steve the grease
On or around Tue, 15 Aug 2006 23:19:15 +0100, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:
*I* wasn't saying that, I don't know... I said "some people" say it. Personally I doubt it - but it's possible that in changing the gear train to fit synchros on 1st/2nd the gears got smaller or something. I've no doubt someone knows the answer...My main point was that in normal motoring, the lack of 1st/2nd synchro is not a major issue.
On or around Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:01:35 +0100, R L driver enlightened us thusly:
I think that one admits to a SIII bulkhead. There's not a lot, visually, between a IIA and III apart from the things you mention and the bonnet leading edge - I think the IIIs may all have had the "deluxe" bonnet. The one in question has a "plain" SII-type bonnet.
however, the yellow one I noted on eBay looks a better bet - also the camo one if you don't mind the non-standard look.
No, but by mentioning the idea, you infer that you agree with the views of 'some people'. ;-)
Well, Series 2a boxes always sheared the layshaft because they were made from Blackpool rock but you don't find Series 3 layshafts suffering from such a problem and the gears are much the same size with same bearings etc.
Agree there.
Martin.
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