IS 300 tire help

My sister was leasing a 2002 IS300.

She had to move for work, so she bought out the lease and I bought the car from her.

Tonight, I hit a pothole and got a flat. A couple of issues came up, I hope someone can help me out.

  1. I noticed that air seemed to be coming out near the valve. Instead of a flat...could the impact of the pothole made the tire loose on the rim, so the air is leaking? How much would something like this cost to fix?

  1. The car has performance tires I believe. And aluminum rims. I called Lexus roadside assistance, and they told me that I would find the lug nut key near the spare. Well I look around and there was no key, and no tire iron either! So the tow truck guy, took out his tire iron (those 4 sided ones) and he was able to take off the lugs. Does this mean I do not have the locks? I thought it was standard? According to Lexus roadside, they said my car had it. They said it was standard. Is it expensive to buy a new tire iron and locks? Do they have to be special ones?

  2. I noticed that it seems like 1 of the lugs sticks out further than the other 4. Is this normal?

Thanks!

-Tony

Reply to
tforms1
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First, some clarification - a rim is a part of a wheel, "rim" is not a correct synonym for a wheel.

If air is coming from the valve, then you may be lucky and just need a new valve stem. If the impact deformed the wheel, then you will need a new wheel. If the impact broke a bead or belt in the tire, you will need a new tire.

The entire wheel is made of alloy, not just the rims.

I

A wheel lock is a lug nut that is rounded on the outside diameter instead of being 6-sided like a regular nut. A wheel lock will have a pattern cut into the top of the nut, and the key will look almost like a lug nut with a pattern that fits into the pattern on top of the wheel lock. A wheel lock will often look like a lug nut that sticks out further than the other lug nuts. If you say something that looks like a lug nut, with the spare, that is the key. Look in the tool kit for the key and tire iron. Your owner's manual will tell you where the tool kit is stored if it is not obvious to you.

Reply to
Ray O

"Rim" is indeed a synonym for a wheel, whether you choose to recognize it or not. It is common terminology.

If the impact deformed the *rim*, you may be lucky and be able to straighten it sufficiently with a rubber mallet to the point where the tire will hold air again. It worked for me on my IS. You don't necessarily have to replace the rim.

Those low profile tires will often be ruined by potholes. It happened to me twice on my IS. It generally will poke a sizeable, visible hole in the sidewall that cannot be repaired.

Again, the wheel is generally referred to as the rim.

They're fairly cheap to replace. Don't buy them from a Lexus dealer, though - there's no reason to, and they'll be cheaper elsewhere.

Reply to
DaveW

I agree that "rim" is a commonly used and popular term for "wheel."

However, "rim" is not used as a synonym for wheel by automotive engineers because the two words have different meanings. Auto manufacturers publish specifications for wheel alignment, not rim alignment; wheelbase, not rimbase; all-wheel and 4 wheel drive, not all rim and 4 rim drive; wheel bearing, not rim bearing, etc. Certain wheels have demountable one-piece and multi-piece rims, and the Society of Automotive Engineers even published a paper titled "Numerical Simulation for the Tire-Rim Interface for a Radial Passenger Tire". The equipment listed by the manufacturer on the Monroney label are alloy wheels, not alloy rims. My fellow employees at Toyota used to refer to people who use the term "rim" when referring to a "wheel" "Motor Trend engineers."

Even though the term "rim" has become a popular synonym for "wheel" by people who are trying to sound knowledgeable when talking about wheels, I seriously doubt if you will see auto manufacturers start to use that term beause they would merely perpetuate the popular misconception.

There are companies that straighten and repair alloy wheels, but I have no experience with them. If DaveW had good results with a rubber mallet, then perhaps one of these companies may be able to satisfactorially make an alloy wheel repair.

Only by auto enthusiasts who are not automotive engineers.

I suspect that the OP's IS has wheel locks but a good aftermarket brand is MacGuard, who makes the ones sold by Toyota and Lexus dealers.

As far as a tire iron, purchase a quality one so that is less likely to mar the lug nuts. Like Dave W says, even a quality one will probably cost less than at a dealership. Check out the metric Craftsman ones sold by Sears.

Reply to
Ray O

Instead

I did not mean "rim" = "wheel" I mean rim as in "rim" = "edge" (i.e. rim of a cup) I meant the part where the tire (rubber) meets the wheel (metal part)

Im not sure where the air was coming from, it was dark. But it came from the general direction of that. Thats what has me worried. When I hit a pothole the treads of the tire hits it. So if air is coming from the side...well how would the pothole hit the side? It wouldnt...so there must be something wrong with the tire. Thats why I thought the part where the tire meets the rim got loose. Or if the wheel is bent, then Im in trouble! Probably a lot of $$$$

Went to the dealship today to get the tire fixed. Since it is Good Friday, the place was crowded, so I will go back tomorrow. I looked at the other cars there, and now I know what the wheel locks look like. I do not have them. I asked a mechanic why 1 lug nut on each tire sticks out, and he said that its a different sized lug nut. He said someone replaced my wheel locks with that lug nut.

My sister leased the car new in California. She bought out the lease, so she is the original owner.

Could the wheel locks not be standard in California? I assume they are standard in all Lexus' so I think that the car transporters (we put it in a moving truck) took the tire iron, wheel lock key, and the wheel lock.

Bastards!

The dealship said a new kit would be about $65. I dont mind that, since they will put it on, since I will be there to get the tire fixed. I am just worried the tire will not be flat, but there is a problem with the wheel itself. Or I have to buy a new tire. (performance tires, I assume are expensive.)

Reply to
tforms1

I recently blew a tire in my IS going over a pothole. The tire flexes so violently, that in combination with the sharp edges of the ashalt it just rips a hole in the sidewall, or it breaks the bead of the tire. Since 215-45 17 tires have a lot of wheel, and very little rubber, they have much less room to flex over bumps than, say, an SUV tire which is a large doughnut on a relatively smaller wheel. That's why performance tires are less tolerant of rough roads than off-road tires are.

I got lucky-- I had to buy a new tire but the wheel wasn't bent, nor were any suspension parts bent.

Reply to
Mark Klebanoff

Ok, just got back from the dealership.

First off, some of my questions might seem naive, but this is my first "real" car. Before this I drove an used 1988 Corolla, that I never had problems with, so repairs are a new thing for me.

  1. Asked about the wheel locks. to purchase, but to put them on. I figure for 2, I can buy them from the store and put them on myself. Do I need to purchase "special" wheel locks, or are they standard? (size, etc)

They said that there is a rip in the sidewall, and that a new tire would cost $225. I am thinking of getting it done somewhere else.

  1. Is it bad that I am driving on the spare for so long? It looks like the same type of wheel and tire. is this the case, or is it a SLIGHTLY smaller wheel, etc?

  1. Does anyone know what kind of tire is on the car? I want to go to a auto store and check out the price on the tires, but I dont know what kind of tire it is. I heard it was performance tires. The wheel uses

5 lugnuts. (does that help ID the tire?) It is a 2002 IS 300, purchased from California.

  1. Can I just purchase 1 new tire? Or do they need to be replaced in pairs? Is it bad to have 1 new tire and 3 old ones? The car has

18,000 miles on it.

Thanks!

Reply to
tforms1

There are different kinds, depending on the wheel. Some are flat on the bottom, some a bit conical, others round. But all are standard, and any good tire store will sell the same MacGuard locks used on Lexus and Toyota. The purchase price is very high, and the labor is ridiculous. Anyone, including the owner, can do it easily, and the nuts themselves are probably around $30 per set. Just check with the store and get the right kind.

Good idea. I got a set of Toyo Proxes (Consumer reports best rated performance tire) for $150 each at Radial Tire in Silver Spring, MD. It was probably another $10 each for mounting and balancing, plus a couple of bucks for enviornmental disposal fees.

The IS has a full size spare and regular wheel, so other than the fact that if you have another flat you're in trouble, there's no harm on driving it forever.

if it's the performace tire, 215-45 ZR 17 (but W and Y ratings are pretty much the same for our purposes). Not a common size, but not that rare either. Any good tire place will have them. However, you ought to have both tires on the axle with the same tread and wear. Given that the car is 2-3 years old, you probably ought to replace both tires on the front or rear, as the case may be.

See above. Depends on how hard you drive. If you're a racer boy, those 17 inch tires might need replacing at 18,000 miles. If you go easy, then just replace 2. I'd probably not replace one, and certainly not if it's a different brand than the one that's on there.

Reply to
Mark Klebanoff

My concern is...you know when you change a tire, you have to put the lug nuts on in a certain order? Well, if I put the wheel lock on, then it wouldnt be in the "proper" order, since I am only touching 1 lug nut. So I am concerned the wheels will be out of balance or something.

$150? Wow, that still seems a lot. My parents have a camry, and they bought radial tires for 99 on sale.

I looked on the tire, they are Bridgestone, and it said something like Temperture (I think) "140", SOMETHING (dont remember) "A", SOMETHING (Dont remember) "A". Is the "140, A, A" the style numbers? Do I just need to tell the tire people those codes?

Then why do I need to replace 2 tires? Isnt driving on the spare (which was totally brand new) the same as buying just 1 new tire?

What effect does that have?

My sister drove it in California, mostly on highways. I got it when there was 15,500 miles on it. In the past 8 months, I put about 2,000 miles. But the threads still seem pretty new.

This sucks. So I will have still have to pay out over 200 for the tire. Lexus told me $225 to replace it (they didnt mention getting 2), so I thought I would go to a cheaper store. but now I learned that its better to get 2 tires. So I probably have to pay over $250 now.

:(

Thanks for all the info and advice.

Reply to
tforms1

I'm not sure how important it is, but if removing only 1 nut, I doubt it makes a difference. If it's all 5, the general rule is that with the car up on jacks, you hand tighten all 5, then pick any one, and tighten it somewhat with the wrench. You then skip one and do the same for the next and keep going. The first time around you end up tightening 1-3-5 and then next pass you get 2-4. t hen you keep going around tightening every other one a little more until they are all tight. I suppose if you were a purist you'd use a torque wrench but I've hardly ever seen anyone do that. It's certainly no big deal.

The tires on the IS are performance tires, certified to speeds of upwards of 149 mph. You drive like a sport, you pay like one, I guess.

Not really. They need the tire size, and probably it's speed rating.

140 is the tread wear index. That's a tire that's going to wear out fast. these days most performance tires are around 220, and the tires you see on family cars and minivans have ratings of up to 600. Of course, that's because they have "harder" rubber that wears well but doesn't handle as crisply as the "sticky" rubber used in performance tires.

The A is the traction rating. Theres AA, A B and C. Pretty much all cars get an A these days. The second A is temperature resistance. I think pretty much all car tires manage A these days as well. I don't think they use AA on that scale.

It's a long story, but I suppose you could put the spare on the spot of the blown tire and just buy a new spare. Still, the concern is that when you have one new tire and one that's half worn out on the same axle you run the risk of getting uneven grip at some point in time, and might get in trouble if you had to make an emergency maneuver. Unless you're a really aggressive driver you may never get into that situation.

Lexus actually recommends a 5-tire rotation pattern, where every few thousand miles you move the tires around to keep wear even on all 5 tires. That means that the tires last 20% longer (since you're using all 5) but when they wear out you need to replace all 5 of them. Hardly anyone does that.

see above. In theory the different gripping abilities could put strain on the suspension or even result in unstable handling. Note I said in theory. I'm not claiming it matters in real life.

2000 miles in 8 months? Why bother with a $35,000 car. You'd be served just as well with a soap-box-derby racer, provided you only go downhill!

Maybe you can get away with just replacing 1 tire, or putting the spare on there and getting another tire for a spare.

Maybe not, but remember, you're talking about a $35,000 car. The upkeep on a given car seems to be proportional to its cost in some ways. So even if you got the car for nothing (ie your sister gave it to you), the underlying assumption is that most people who buy a car in that price range, with performance tires that are utterly useless in even an inch of snow and that may have a 25000 mile lifespan, and that handles crisply, rides somewhat stiffly and can go over 140 miles an hour, are ready, willing and able to cough up money when things like tires blow.

If you want a cheap beater, buy a 10 year old used Chevy.

Reply to
Mark Klebanoff

What is the point of that? Most places the speed limit is 65. (all the highways near me are either 50 or 55) The fastest I have gotten the car is about 80ish.

hmmmm I assume lower ratings (140, 220) will be more expensive than the higher ones? I think I might get a higher rating...since I dont do "performance driving"

wow, I didnt know that.

lol, my sister was in the middle of a 3 year lease. She had to move out of the country, so there were very little options. I was looking for a new car, so we decided to just buy out the lease.

I found out about the snow this year! I live in NY and we got a lot of snow this year. Thats party the reason why I have only gone 2000 miles, the car cannot drive in the snow!

hmmm so maybe I should replace 2 of the tires with more "normal" tires? this way next year when it snows I wont have so many problems?

What would more "normal" tires be? Do I go to the store and say "Look at my car...I have these tires, but I want more 'normal' ones?"

What do you think would be the effect of having 2 performance tires and

2 normal ones?

Thanks!!

Reply to
tforms1

No point, I suppose, although those high speed tires will also handle more surely at normal speeds. However, those are the tires that Lexus put on the car, since the car was meant for the entry-level performance market, like the 3-series BMW.

Not necessarily. Lower ratings will wear out more quickly than higher ones, but people buy tires for a lot of reasons. So I'm not aware of any correlation between treadwear and price.

You probably would have spent less money getting a used Camry, Accord, Corolla, etc, assuming your sister didn't give you a great deal. It also seems like you're wasting money owning an IS300

I ran the IS for a winter with dedicated snow tires (a different wheel and tire size than the performance ones, by the way). It took a car that was dangerous in snow and improved it to merely useless. I finally gave up and bought a used RAV4, which I now drive in snow, and when I need to carry large or dirty stuff.

There are no "normal" 215-45/17 tires. Even the all seasons (if you can find any) will be pretty weak in snow. If that's the case you might want to buy a new set of 16" wheels and tires, but that's probaby more trouble than its worth.

My sense is that you're probably better off trading that IS on a late model used Camry or Accord. Y ou're maintaining a $35k performance car when performance driving isn't important to you.

It would probalby be dangerous.

Reply to
Mark Klebanoff

That's a good explanation. For what it's worth, not all IS's with 17" wheels come with Bridgestones. My 2002 IS came with Dunlop 9000s. Although Tire Rack rated them as mediocre, I liked them. I replaced them with Toyo Proxes TV-S (or something like that), which is Toyo's high performance equivalent-- Tire Rack doesn't stock those. Anyway, they're good, but noisier than the Dunlops.

Reply to
Mark Klebanoff

Can you drop me an email at: snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com

I have some followup questions about driving in the snow in NY/NJ.

Thanks!

-Tony

Reply to
tforms1

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