My 96 ES300 passed 110,000 miles last week. The car is still in very good shape, but there are a few problems. The AC isn't as powerful as it should be; is this model air conditioning prone to failure? The right front power window is dead, and the right rear door cannot be opened from the inside.
These lessor problems make me think that more serious issues are not too far away. The car has been maintained regularly, and never ran over the tach redline. How about the motor and trans? How long will they last? Any other weak spots? I still like the car, but don't want to have it fall apart while I own it. What can I expect? Thanks
The drivetrain will likely require periodic infusions of money for things like belts, hoses, filters, O2 sensors, alternators, power steering pumps, etc., but there is no reason the basic engine and tranny can't go 200K and further.
If it were my car, I'd be sure the timing belt was changed out as recommended, do a complete fluids change-out (engine, tranny, power steering pump, brakes, anti-freeze), replace the air and fuel filters, replace all the belts/hoses that are still original, get the A/C system recharged, and have the interior items fixed. The the handling is sub-par, you might consider new struts. If all this stuff hasn't been done, you might have to spend a couple grand. Then, you should be good to go a long, long time with only routine maintenance. The only bad achilles-heel of this model is the flacky instrument lighting - if this hasn't bit you, you should consider yourself very lucky.
Notwithstanding corrosion issues in a rust-belt climate, an older, but well-made, car like this, can do almost indefinitely if you infuse regular amounts of maintenance like this. But spending $1200/year on maintenance is a lot cheaper than a $550/month lease payment.
Instrument needles are now all dim except for a little part of the gas guage. All warning lights still work, however. I can still read the speed and tach -- it's just not very comfortable to do so. But then, if I just go with the flow and/or use the speed control, I don't really need to.
Air conditioning went out last year. Turned out to be all the freon leaked out. Recharged and we're all ok again.
Replaced the engine radiator at maybe 250K. The cost pleasantly surprized me. The radiator is plastic (never rusts, though it can crack) and isn't as expensive as all the older American cars I've known. Nor was the labor all that expensive.
Engine, tranny, wheel bearings, shocks, muffler, interior hardware and seats are all still working fine. Wait, I had to replace the driver's side window mechanism at maybe
200K miles.
I add about 1qt of oil between 5000mile oil/filter changes.
Regarding the timing belt. My manual is very clear in that I don't need to ever replace it unless I drive at very low speeds a lot, like a police car patrolling. This seems real strange to me, but that's what it says. Of course, it will eventually break. I can't remember ever replacing it, but maybe I have.
Steering bushing has broken down. Symptoms were an 8" play in the steering wheel. My mechanic "fixed" it last year with a radiator hose. This fix only lasted about 6 months. But it WAS fixed from my perspective during this timeframe. ANY IDEAS FROM THE KNOWLEGEABLE PEOPLE IN THIS GROUP? I do not want to replace the whole assembly, but I don't want to have to fix it every 6 months, either.
I also have a 1996 ES 300 with 76800 miles. My check engine light just came on. I have an appt. for Sat @ the dealer. Any ideas on what it could be?? I have to get the light turned off to get a inspection.
At this mileage it could be a lot of things, but you are at the point where a number of sensors for the fuel injection system often fall, typically either the airflow sensor or one of the O2 sensors. The only approach is to have the dealer scan the computer for the trouble code. This will point you to what needs to be replaced. Typically, a sensor repair is a few hundred dollar job, although it can be more or less.
Your car was built before the stringent set of emissions diagnostic sensors were required, so it is unlikely to be the "loose gas cap" which is the first thing you check on a new car.
I had to replace the headlights at about 100K and again at 200K. I replaced both at once. I lost an alternator at 140K The license tag illumination went at about 150K. I got pulled over for that. So I replaced all of the lights in the back at that point. The check engine light has been on continuously since about 150K. I constantly fuel the thing with the motor running though. A friend of mine checked the computer error readout with a handheld instrument and told me that my oxygen danger level indicator meter light failure pre-warning was telling me something that wasn't important so I forgot. Air conditioner, all pieces failed between 190 and 220K miles. If you have to do the air, replace everything because it will save you on labor. I'm in Florida though so take that with a grain of humidity. When the AC went it blew the fuse for the dash while I was in the middle of no-where. I pulled the seat heater fuse and swapped it with the dash and then didn't turn the AC back on until I got where I was going. Rear sway bar bushings started making rattling noise at 220K (cheap to fix) All seals on windows started making noise and 2 electric windows died at about 200K indicator pointers on meters are about 80% still functional but the dead spots are obvious. Some lights out in the AC controls but that module costs too much to replace. All in all it's been a staggeringly good deal. At my 10 year aniversary for this car I bought an ES330. Now lets hope that the new one lasts like the old one has. I still have the ES300.
I recommend an old ES300 as a best car to get in the $10,000 price range. Much better than any new $10,000 car.
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