96 Escort 1.8 turbodiesel fuel problem

I posted here 3 weeks back and my thanks for the advice given then, but the problem continues. This copied from my original message 'A bit of heat and it started straight away. Within a few seconds it started running a bit lumpy. I increased the revs a little but it did not want to rev. Within about 30 seconds the engine died and now refuses to fire at all.'

Have now replaced the priming pump/filter housing but the problem remains. Supply from the primer is good and clean. Have cracked and removed 2 injector pipes in case air in the HP side is a problem. Whilst cranking there is the merest dribble of fuel from the cracked injector pipes. As a matter of interest I stripped the old primer plunger housing. All seemed ok but there was some gunge/silt in there and also a little water. I removed the banjo coupling where the supply goes into the injection pump thinking that there might be a filter there, but there isn't. Pushing the priming plunger whilst the banjo coupling was removed delivered a good and clean supply of fuel.

So I suspect the problem lies with the injection pump but I also suspect this could be mechanical or electrical, perhaps both. Anyone got any ideas please? Also any answers to these: (1) in the fuel supply line between the tank and the priming pump is a small black box, mounted just to the front of and below the priming pump. The fuel line goes in and out to the priming pump. This little box also has a 2 wire electrical connection. Any idea what it is? Collision switch perhaps, but there is not a reset button that I can find. I have checked all fuses that I can find and all seem ok. (2) How is fuel pumped from the tank to the injection pump? (3) One top of the throttle lever on the injection pump is a red electrical gadget with 3 wires - what does this do? (4) On the injection pump there are what look to be 2 solenoids, 1 to the front and 1 to the rear - what do these do? (5) At the top left hand side of the injection pump is an arm with a cable connected. That cable looks as if it goes down into part of the water cooling system. Is this a cold start/running device ?

My apologies for so many questions, but this is really bugging me. Especially as it's my daughters car and she has asked me to sell it for her. Even more so as some mindless cretin has wrecked the windscreen, front os wing and rear os window in the last week! So much for living in a peaceful and rural area.

I know my way around old fashioned diesels, but modern control systems are unknown to me. My thanks in advance for any help.

Compliments of the season to all.

Nic.

Reply to
Nic O'Demus
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Have you tried a fresh supply of diesel. Sounds like it might have petrol in it.

There are throttle position sensors, maff units and all sorts of extras on late diesels.

MrCheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

Thanks for that, petrol in the tank was my first thought but that definitely isn't the problem. Drained the tank and purged the fuel lines after my first post 3 weeks ago. Whats a maff unit? Other than Min of AGG, food and fish. Or perhaps something else of course! Damn. Looks like this is becoming a problem that will be costing me ~ again! I only want to sell the wretched car. Damn. Damn. Bugger.

My thanks again. Tis now time for a beer and a long lay in the bath with some goood music.

Nic

Reply to
Nic O'Demus

It sounds to me like a fault with the internal fuel transfer pump inside the injector pump- the rotors occasionally break up. This is the only pump which sucks fuel all the way from the tank. To check this, have an assistant pre heat then crank the engine, whilst you are pumping the primer. if the engine fires or starts but stops when you stop pumping you've found the problem.

not sure?! Never seen one of these- it could be a fuel heater mind though these are usually in the bottom of the filter bowl. If it has fairly thick wires to it, then definately a heater.

See above.

This is the throttle position sensor used to regulate the EGR system and also the low speed advance mechanism.

One is the cold start full advance solonoid, the other is the low speed advance.

This is merely the fast idle device operated from a wax stat on the thermostat hoousing. It also allows the full advance soloniod to do something internally when the lever is pulled. If it doesnt work cold starting will be very poor.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM. Registry corupted, reformated HD and l

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