A few quick questions

Four axle stands

No

Yes & Yes.

They tend to seize even if you do them properly. A new copper washer every time helps & they're 10p

Without a tester there's no real way of knowing, & the fluids a lot cheaper than a tester.

By the time it doesn't look clear it's too late

Yes they do seem to do them up tooo tight!!

For the price it is, yes you should really. Brake fluid absorbs water like its going out of fashion, and even a tightly closed container is going to suffer condensation.

If its original, yes.

Tim..

Four axle stands?

Won't do any harm.

Halfords sell re-fills - ie the rubbers only.

Oil filters tend to sort of tighten up in use. But a suitable strap spanner makes removal easy - if there's room. For the drain plug it sounds like you need a conventional pro length ring spanner.

You changed the brake fluid without bleeding them afterwards? That's why they're soft - unless you used a pressure bleeder.

Yes - it may have lost some of its properties.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote: :: In article , :: Peter Spikings wrote: ::: A have a few quick questions about my 2000 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec:

::: - It needs new wipers. Is it really necessary to have to purchase ::: the complete assembly each time the rubber blade wears out??? Is ::: this a bit of a con? :: :: Halfords sell re-fills - ie the rubbers only.

You have to watch out using refills though - over time the springs on the wiper arm stop springing as they should and you find it only wipes at the pressure points not all along the length.

I usually do arms - refill - arms - refill but you could probably go two refills no problem.

::: - I replaced the brake fluid last week and used 2 year old fluid - ::: was that a good move? When I closed the bottle 2 years ago I made ::: sure I'd tightened the cap properly. After the change the brakes ::: were ever so slightly softer but still good enough so that from ::: rolling at 10mph I could apply the brakes quick enough to lock the ::: front wheels before coming to a stop. No, I didn't let any air into ::: the system :) It's a 5L bottle and there's enough left to do the ::: wife's car too, wondering whether to use brand new fluid.

I'd be wary. Brake fluid which has absorbed lots of water tends to still apparently work, but it boils at a much lower temperature. All seems fine until you really need them... a fast stop from high speed, say, or a long steep downhill stretch with a hairpin bend at the bottom....

When it boils you suddenly find your brake pedal goes flat to the floor with no apparent slowing of the car...

Except on some cars... Our Previa for example has a 28" curved wiper. The replacement for that is a main dealer part at over £60 each!

For the sump, consider using one of these:

Hmm, I only have two... plus isn't it a bit unstable? A decent shove from the front or back or the car surely might have undesirable results :)

That's what I thought too...

I looked in there but didn't find them, I'll have another look.

I've got some oil filter pliers, not enough room for a strap on the Ka. The pliers work great unless it's a garage that's done it before, in which case they tend to distort the filter instead of turning.

I did use a pressure bleeder. Also as I said, they are only ever so slightly softer. I saw bubbles come out at one rear wheel which had had a garage replace the pads, they're far too slap dash.

OK, fair enough.

Thanks,

Peter.

I'd say more stable than just two, actually. Although if I need the whole car in the air, I tend to use ramps at one end, stands the other.

I'll do that then :)

Do you reckon I should replace it all again then?

I always engine brake (even if it means using 2nd at 50) when going down steep hills but yes I don't want the brakes to fade out suddenly :D

Thanks,

Peter.

I might do that, I've never had a problem undoing filters / drain plugs that I've done up myself however (hand-tight with spanner for plug and literally hand-tight for filter).

Yes, I'll get some more.

I guess.

Thanks,

Peter.

::: ::: I'd be wary. Brake fluid which has absorbed lots of water tends to ::: still apparently work, but it boils at a much lower temperature. ::: All seems fine until you really need them... a fast stop from high ::: speed, say, or a long steep downhill stretch with a hairpin bend at ::: the bottom.... ::: ::: When it boils you suddenly find your brake pedal goes flat to the ::: floor with no apparent slowing of the car... :: :: Do you reckon I should replace it all again then? :: :: I always engine brake (even if it means using 2nd at 50) when going :: down steep hills but yes I don't want the brakes to fade out :: suddenly :D

There are litmus-type strips available to test brake fluid but I can't seen any around online - other than that there are electronic testers which can check the condition of the fluid.

Realistically you could take it to a Kwik-Krap place that offers 'free brake testing' and get them to check the condition of the fluid for you...

I expect they're rather like those damp meters house surveyors use - they'd register severe damp if you probed the Sahara.

Most garages don't undo the sump plug nowadays, they use a vacuum sucker to suck it out of the dipstick hole. You may be removing it for the first time.

Steve