Brake Bleeding Kits

The message from "David Linley" contains these words:

Mine did. Smashing idea - but beware of the tyre pressure - it's easy to get it too high and blow the cap off!

Also, modify the cap that fits the master cylinder by pushing the feed pipe through about an inch. That way, when you release the pressure, residual pressure in the system pushes excess fluid back into the storage jar so you don't end up with the car's reservoir so full that you can't get the lid on without displacing fluid all over the place. You can always top it up if it's too low, but getting excess out is messy.

I have used the Gunson kit and its easy to set up. The kit comes with a couple of caps that will fit most models. Check with the motor factor before buying. Some points

- I used some 3 in 1 at the bleed nipples for 3/4 days to make sure I did not strip the thread. More important at the calipers because of the cost if you have to replace.(not easy extracting a bleed nipple if you have stripped the head)

- the spare tyre is deflated to quite a low pressure - forget exact psi. - keep a good supply of fluid in the reservoir - check as you go along- bleed as per the manual instructions. My car is bleed diagonally. Started at rear RHS and then bleed from LHS front etc.. Yours may be different.

You will notice a marked change in the brake fluid colour when you have drained the old stuff.

They'll work on any car - although ABS might make a difference. Not a problem with a Metro, though.

They come with several tops, and one which fitted my '84 SD1. And they will supply others at low cost, according to the leaflet. But I'll bet one they supply will fit.

Make sure you drop the pressure of the spare to under 20 psi - lower won't make much difference. But higher can blow the tubing off, and fluid will go everywhere. Make double sure you have screwed the new top on properly, ie not cross threaded, as again any leaks will make a hell of a mess.

Keep an eye on the reservoir - it's a good idea to bleed into a similar sized container, so as that fills up you'll know the other is near empty.

Otherwise, they are great - takes all the hassle out of bleeding brakes and clutches.

Brilliant things!

I don't know for sure if they the right adaptor for you car, but they do come with quite a variety, so I suspect you'll be OK...Take your existing reservoir cap with you and check?

When you come to release the pressure, don't just flip the valve connector off the tyre...in my experience, the sudden "depressurisation" sometimes seems to draw a lot of micro bubbles into the fluid. If you kink the pipe between the tyre and the ezzy bleed, you can let the pressure release slowly over a few seconds.

I had one, and despite dropping the pressure and being very careful with fitting caps etc I still had several leak incidents, and let the reservoir run too low on more than one occasion.

So I made one using a garden sprayer - B&Q, about £12. Just fitted an appropriate cap to the output hose. Large reservoir that doesn't run out, built in pump for pressurising the tank, no need to mess around with the spare wheel. Much easier all round.

Thanks for all the replies so far!

David.

Don't do what I did at the weekend; Decide that the rear pads are a bit low and decide to change then WITHOUT disconcerting the pressure, when you pull the pad out the piston shoots out! The tire pressure was only 7psi as well! These kits work great!

Keep well,

A small plastic syringe takes care of removing excess without mess...

I've found it works well on my Renault, but have yet to get a spare brake fluid reservoir cap for my Subaru (from scrappy), as none of the Gunson ones are even close to fitting...

Rich.

Have you contacted Gunson? My instructions say other sizes are available for a nominal sum.

Interesting - I need to do my clutch, but the opening on the clutch master cylender is nearly three times the size of the brake cylender neck, about 1.5" as opposed to 0.75" Do you reckon they will fit?

Cheers,

Using an internal vernier calliper, and at right angles to the threads, the sizes I've got are:-

2.44 steel 2.43 plastic 2.11 steel 1.75 steel 1.65 plastic - the SD1 one 1.05 steel 0.97 steel

They list as extras:-

24mm 44-44.5mm 45mm 80mm (thread measured outside diameter

0.75" sounds pretty small?

Just bled the brakes successfully now with it. Best £15 I've spent this year! It's really easy. I remember having to bleed them about 3 or 4 times last time. It also revealed that I have a blocked nipple (ouch!), but because the system was under pressure I was able to remove the nipple completely, spray a bit of brake fluid all over the path (oops!) and clear the air that way. Wonder if that was why I had trouble before. Thanks for the hints! David.

The message from "Roy Linley" contains these words:

Did you take the opportunity to unblock it?

No. Was a bit worried about the brake fluid pouring out of the hole and wanted to get it back in quickly. At least I'll be prepared for it next time... Any tips for unblocking? Do you have to poke down the hole with a pin?

David.

The message from "Roy Linley" contains these words:

There's a hole down the middle and a cross-drilling near the tip. I've always drilled gently down them with a tiddlydrill until I've met metal

- then stopped. If that hasn't unblocked it then you have to take it right out, leave an assistant with their finger over the hole while you poke out the cross-drilling.

Right. Will make sure I have a little dutch boy to help me next time.

David.

(Apologies for double identity. Using my Dad's computer.)

I'm amazed you don't have spares, Guy, given the bangers you often drive. I've got several.

The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

I wasn't near home. Anyway - why use a spare when a bit of bodging will do.

: I've been wondering about getting one of those Gunson Easy : Bleed kits that uses the pressure from the spare tyre to force the brake : fluid through.

Horrible, horrible, horrible things. Run, don't walk, away from the shelves.

Ian