Cavalier n/s front wheel noise.

Check the wheel is tight. Check the caliper is still bolted on. This is a serious suggestion as I came across a cavalier with a loose caliper once. Otherwise it is just check each movable bit for play, swap wheels etc.

mrcheerful

Sounds like the CV joint is badly worn. Not uncommon on older (well, that's all of 'em nowadays!) and higher mileage Cavaliers. Refurbished driveshafts are fairly cheap and straightforward to fit IIRC. Probably as well to change the balljoint at the same time.

How can I positively identify the problem as a worn CV joint? I'd rather not take the thing to pieces if there's an easier way! I have tried grasping the drive shaft, and trying to rotate it each way - I can't feel movement.

cv wear is almost impossible to assess without dismantling the joint, generally a cv will first make noise when turning and accelerating, even in this condition it will usually be quiet in a straight line, until it is terminally worn.

mrcheerful

I've been chasing noises in my Cav's front legs for a while now.

First thing is change that ball joint - IMHO if the rubber goes the joint isn't long for this world and they're only a tenner or so plus a bit of work.

Ian

Umph. Haven't noticed a problem 'till yesterday. A quick (well, not really) drive just now resulted in it being fine, for a while, then a clacking sound... no real vibration, just "clack.. clack.. clack.. silence.. clack-clack-clack-clack-clack-clack... silence.. clack.." etc. I drove extremely gently and slowly back, in third, the noise is intermittent, and apparent on light throttle, in a straight line. More than one clack per wheel revolution.

Any ideas how much a joint would be, if it's the problem? Do I need anything special to fit it?

Out into the cold and dark and wind now to get greasy. Buttocks. Bum.

The shop's shut, you see. Guesses would be OK.

Knickers. Before I go out, I suppose it could be the inner joint, is that likely/doable?

an outer joint is about 40 quid, straightforward to do

Well, depending on price, I need another car, or a new CV joint. What price a new CV joint? The outer is pitted. The spider, if that's what it's called, has a distinct mark all around it - I can't feel a deep trench, but it is worn. I suppose the ball bearings will have worn too. It's fsck'd. No idea whether the inner is a problem, I don't want to have to take it apart!

What do I need in the way of tools to replace this? There's a chuffin' big castellated nut looking at me, which I guess won't be hard to undo. What's on the inside? I have heard there's another big nut involved somewhere... a Google shows there *may* me interesting info on "cavweb forums", but it's down.

Any help with howto, or howmuch, really appreciated.

Big socket, assistant to press brake pedal whilst undoing it & a ball joint splitter. Check the inner as if it's worn you might as well buy a

2nd hand driveshaft. Otherwise you get as much grease out as possible & spread the circlip with a screwdriver or external circlip pliers.

How do I check the inner? I surmise that it runs in the same oil as is in the gearbox. I have split the ball joint already, it's all lightly re-assembled now and the wheel on in case the car falls off the fence post it's resting on. The CV inner gubbins is by me now. What I'm principally interested in is how to get the CV "outer race" off the thing the wheel bolts onto. Apols., I don't know what it's called. I will have to go some distance tomorrow to get bits. If I need a big socket, I wonder what size I'll need? Do I need to torque the thing back up, or just swing on it? My problem is, I have never done one of these before, I haven't a book, and I'll have to pick up bits and pieces by bicycle, as long as it still works, that is. I are also been on the juice in the last hour or so. Nice to be indoorsa.

The socket size is 27 (off the top of my head). Great accuracy in torque is not essential.

The inner joint is greased like the outer.

mrcheerful

I'l phone up the car bits shop tomorroe and check they've got one before I go.

I've a nice tin of moly grease in the "garage" just waiting.

Now to bed. Thanks for everyone's help. Maybe it'll be a goer.

It's a bit fiddly & if you can find a vice that makes it easier, but it should come good. Ring round, there's a big variation in price, they should be about £25.

Hmmm - I'm sure the driveshaft nuts are 30mm.........

Check it out first

Ian

Thanks all for the help on this one. A bit of support makes the job doable.

I bought a CV joint from a motor factor. £30. It turned out to be recon., with a 2 year/24,000 mile guarantee (probably not worth much). I should have gone for the other factor, I guess, £27- + VAT, but with a CV boot. You live & learn. Anyway, off by bicycle to get the bit. A 30mm deep socket from Halfords, the only place I could find one within striking distance, £6.5. The nut came off reasonably easily, loosened with the wheel on the ground, using a 1/2" swivelling socket handle with a bit of inch square section tube for an extension handle, about 3' long. The CV slid out on its spline easily. Cleaned up the outer for a look - fsck'd, pitted and worn. Cleaned out the boot on the driveshaft. Fitted the new CV joint to the drive shaft. This needed a knocking on with a hammer used carefully. The joint was rather stiff (before it was put on) - are they all like this? Pushed the joint back into the hub, with a bit of moly grease wiped on, did everything back up, job done.

A chap from a breakers quoted £35 for a drive shafe, cv at each end, 1 month warranty. I'd have had to pss about at the gearbox end, which I know nothing of. Fingers crossed.

That's normal.