Cavalier theft attempt - steering wheel now 45 degree offset

Not really(*), but I think you probably shouldn't drive the car until you've had it checked out. One twist back and you might have 45 degrees of slop, or more.

(*) Something securing the splined attachment to the steering wheel itself, at a push. I presume resistance was offered by the steering lock, as otherwise the wheels would have turned to their stops and I wouldn't expect the linkage, the rack and pinion, or the splined fitting to "give" ?

PS Change your car. Yours is now a major target for every scumbag in the vicinity.

Assuming the steering lock was set and didn't give way, the only possible explanation is that the wheel has slipped on its splines. I don't suppose they took it off to try and gain access to the lock?

Either way, it needs checking.

tried

vintage but has

degrees ACW. I was

and working,

car drives

as the steering

to strip it down

drilled out.

My guess is that they've twisted the steering wheel on the tapered splines of the shaft, in an attempt to break the lock. The shaft itself won't be twisted. I'd start by removing the s/wheel. If my guess is correct, the splines on the s/wheel hub wil be chewed up. The mating splines on the column should be OK as most s/wheel hubs are made from cast ally, whereas the column is steel. If that is actually the case, it could be a bit dodgy to replace the s/wheel with damaged splines. I'd suggest the cheapest solution is to find and fit one from a breakers yard. You should be able to pick one up for a few quid. Mike.

The steering column......the shell part will be twisted to f*ck... Replace it....S/H for about £20

Happened to my old mk11 a while back.

tea-leaves force the steering wheel, cause the lock to bend or fracture

Get the locking mechanism on the steering column replaced.

Fancy bumping into uk.d-i-y-ers here! I'm not surprised really :-)

That's right, the lock is not broken and still works fine at the new 45 degree position.

No, the wheel is still firmly on. In fact I can't get it off or I would probably have sorted it by now!! I bought a Draper steering wheel puller (stock no. 31488) labelled "fits all Vauxhall/Opel vehicles", but it didn't fit. The prongs are approximately 3mm too far apart and 1mm too thick to fit the pulling holes on this (1988 Mk 2 Cavalier) steering wheel.

Yep, that's what I want to do.

Yes, certainly that was the attempt. I religiously fit a DiskLock - except I forgot that night :-(

That's what I thought, its some 1/2" dia steel.

Herin lies a problem - see above answer to Dave P.

Ahh, that sounds feasible, though I'm surprised the lock didn't give way first.

I have a Vauxhall specialist breaker near here - but he's almost out of Mk

Do you mean collapsible part of the column labelled 16 in the Haynes book in Fig 8.2 on page 176? i.e. the trellis like part. I wondered about that but can't see how it can move in view of the tube U-bracket being still firmly bolted to the dash panel. I can't actually see the cage without pulling out all the hardboard covers.

It is really quite rigid in its new position. If the splined casting had come adrift from the steering wheel I would expect it to be sloppy now.

Wanna buy it? The advent of pretty good security on new cars has certainly made these older models a prime target. The DiskLock seems a good deterent, judging by the fact that this happened on the only night I forgot to use it.

Different problem.

intact

the

lock.

DiskLock - except I

Yes. That is a problem. :-) The easiest solution might be to visit to your nearest Vauxhall garage, who should have a suitable puller. Preferably taking the replacement wheel with you when you find one. Others might suggest you simply knock it off with a mallet or hammer. Whilst that would undoubtedly work, there is a chance of damaging the column itself, especially if it is the collapsible type. Most seem to get away with it when using that method, but it's not one I'd recommend.

splines

from

didn't give way

Steering column locks are surprisingly strong. Usually taking the form of a key that fits into a slot on the column itself. Takes a lot to shear something like a 6mm square key. Many are made of steel, but even the ally ones are not easily broken. The housing might give way before the key broke. Mike. .

No thanks ;-) I sold mine earlier this year a few months after having it all patched up after a stereo theft. Mode of entry ? Place foot firmly on passenger front door, grab top of door, pull hard. Once door bent, open locks if not deadlocked, otherwise keep pulling until window gives up struggle and shatters, falling outside car. In through window, don't even have to sit on broken glass, remove radio, empty glovebox. When looking for a new car, I actively avoided any that seemed to have similarly vulnerable wrap-over door styles - it seems to be an increasingly easy and common way to force entry.

I think my alarm failed. But it was never 100%.

I've been thinking of that, to see if they will just pull it free and leave the nut on loosely so I can drive it back home (gingerly) then remove the wheel.

I did try that but there isn't really anywhere you can get a decent swipe in the right direction. It looks as if it's more likely to wreck the wheel than shift it.

Thanks for that.

Phil PS Sorry for the lack of sig. My auto sig got switched off.

Vauxhall

the

free and leave

remove the

or

chance of

collapsible

it's

decent swipe in

the wheel than

Maybe two hammers. One each side using sychronised hits. Does it really matter if the s/wheel is damaged ? Personally I wouldn't like to just replace it in the correct position. It probably will bolt up and appear to be OK, but I can't see it's splines being undamaged after being screwed round on the shaft. For the price of a s/h wheel, I'd rather not take the chance. I'd find a s/h wheel before attempting to remove the old one. Then it wouldn't matter if it did break. Mike. Mike.

Agreed. I'm just wanting to find out what bit was really damaged.

Good idea. I'll give it a try. When you say whack with one hammer each side, do you mean on the rim? I can do that but I thought it would be too springy to have much effect.

Phil

the rim? I can do

effect.

As close to the centre as possible, on the supporting arms rather than the rim. You might also be able to feed a rod up, avoiding the switchgear etc to touch nearer the hub, and beat that with a hammer. Either way I suggest you don't remove the nut completely, so the wheel doesn't fly off and hit someone/thing. Mike.