I've read, probably in this group, that to try to remove the spheres on my Xantia with a chain (similar to that used to remove oil filter) is a thankless task.
Do I have to use the specialist tool for this (about £18) or can I use something else?
krystnors
: Do I have to use the specialist tool for this (about ?18) or can I use : something else?
A chisel works nicely on a DS.
Ian
If you get the one thats not a chain but a kinda belt it will do the oil filter nicely as well ;-) and its a bit of gruff if they have been there a fair while and not lubed proper wen going on :(
Ian Johnston ( snipped-for-privacy@talk21.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
Butcher....
krystnors ( snipped-for-privacy@tiscali.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
It certainly can be.
The easiest way is to try and shift them a *crack* with pressure still on the hydraulics, to stop the cylinders rotating. A crappy little Halfrauds- style oil-filter chain wench is definitely not going to cope with spheres that have been in place for a fair while - you'll need something bigger.
The proper sphere wrench will certainly make life a lot easier.
As soon as you get the merest smidge of movement on the sphere, depressurise the suspension, and they should spin right off.
Same for the accumulator, but you'll need to release the pressure using the bleed screw on the block.
Don't forget the anti-sink sphere if it's a later car (central chevrons on the front), and if it's VSX/Exclusive, the centre hydractive spheres. If it's an Activa, there's bloody spheres *everywhere*....
NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER try to remove the sphere with the suspension still pressurised. A sphere fired into your teeth with 2500psi of hydraulic pressure behind it can spoil your whole day. Think "Cannonball"...
Remember to depressurise the system and lower the suspension to minimum before attempting to unscrew. Otherwise the sphere will be pressurised and acting against the threads and be v hard to shift.
Gio
: Ian Johnston ( snipped-for-privacy@talk21.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like : they were saying : : : >: Do I have to use the specialist tool for this (about ?18) or can I use : >: something else? : : > A chisel works nicely on a DS. : : Butcher....
I know, I know, but there's something rather gratifying about mending the most technically sophisticated car of all time with a lump hammer and a half-inch cold chisel ...
Not to mention the six different DS uses I have now found for a three foot wrecking bar.
Yours in brutality,
Ian
Gio (x) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
At the rear, if you depressurise it all BEFORE you shift the sphere on the threads, there's nothing holding the cylinders still, and you've got a good chance of turning the whole cylinder, possibly even ripping the pipes out of it...
No, you crack them 1/4 turn with the suspension fully presurized at max height. You wont be able to other wise cos the strut will turn!
Tim..
After changing oil filters with a crappy little Halfrauds-style oil-filter chain wench, and even then having to use a screwdriver to crack it I knew it wasn't going to cope with spheres.
And that's why, after considering a lump hammer and a half-inch cold chisel, not to mention a three foot wrecking bar, I think it worthwhile to get the proper sphere wrench.
It is an anti-sink car (95N) and thankfully not an Activa. Do they really have that many spheres?
The front spheres are starting to go, but when raising and lowering the suspension (deliberately) it groans and moans something rotten.
I have lubricated the accumulator with WD40 and it eases it for a while. Is there anything I can use to verify it or is this a sign that the accumulator is on the way out.
The rear suspension is fine.
krystnors
krystnors ( snipped-for-privacy@tiscali.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
Sticky struts, and/or shot rear arm bearings.
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