Cobra immobiliser, general questions.

Hi all,

I've bought a couple of touch-key Cobra 8510 immobiliser's and fitted one to daughters b/f's HiLux and it went ok (we may add an electric fuel pump to it later as well).

Whilst installing I noted it had two switched live inputs and I called Cobra to ask:

1) Why? (they couldn't tell me but gave me the number of their 'man tech man' who I've yet to speak with)

and

2) What would happen if they were connected to two different fused switched live ccts (if that was the 'point', to minimise the risk of the vehicle being auto-immobilised whist in motion) and a fault was to develop on one cct that caused the fuse to blow (to protect the cct). ... wouldn't the secondary feed then effectively bypass the fuse on the first cct and cause the fuse in the second cct to blow (in any case), or if they weren't both fused, melt some wiring? [1]

If it was simply to provide some extra wires to make the job of bypassing it more time consuming then I could just join them together and pick up a switched live feed from anywhere on the ignition as if that goes dead you wouldn't have any ignition in the first place?

A second question from that then. We now have the Mk3 Astra back (stolen / recovered) and I intend fitting the other Cobra system to that (FWIW etc). Where would be good points to immobilise that please as at least it has an ECU that (presumably) couldn't easily be hotwired otherwise.

The 8510 has dual ccts that are 'made' when disarmed.

Cheers, T i m

[1] A diode in each leg would prevent that of course.
Reply to
T i m
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It is, we checked. ;-(

My thought is that if I took the +15 from somewhere near the live feed to the ignition cct (x2, 30mm apart ) then if the power goes to that point then I won't have any ignition in the first place (from a safety perspective here).

I'm cautious of the fact that the immobiliser is only rated to 10A per cct so I wouldn't want to switch the entire switched live output like that.

So, it's just to add a deterrent by having what looks like an actual alarm / immobiliser device (rather than a dummy flashing led etc) and some difficulty to their day by killing say the LT feed to the actual ignition and / or starter / electric fuel pump / crank sensor / other?

My idea is that if they go so far as actually breaking into the thing again and attempting to drive it off that it /nearly/ starts but doesn't. The longer I can keep them occupied the better chance of them being spotted by a passer by.

On that then, what sensor could I cut that would let it say start but not rev / run properly?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

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