Core plugs

if it is water then it won't be from there. if it is coolant then try a bottle of k-seal.

Does the coolant level drop?

Usual cause of rusty plugs on the Fester is either leaking screenwash pipes, or rainwater leaks around the screenwash jets.

Chris

That should be worth a try, thanks. It is not easy to distinguish dirty rusty water from dirty rusty water containing antifreeze.

The water loss needed to drown the spark plugs is insignificant.

Water coming downwards would leave puddle marks on the cam cover. It has to be the core plugs.

a taste test does it antifreeze is sweet ! my money is on rainwater or washer fluid.

the other thing that does it is jetwashing the engine bay

It doesn't get rusty until it has been sat on the head.

Top of head is above the coolant jacket so will be somewhere between water/oil temps and under 100°C. Without boiling it takes a long time to lose a few cc of water. Steam will condense back to water.

Which costs more?

Dry out plug holes. Get a turkey baster, suck up as much water as you can, finish off with kitchen towel to wick up the water. Pour water over washer jets, open bonnet, look for drips and wet plugs.

Dry out plug holes. Get a turkey baster , suck up as much water as you can, finish off with kitchen towel to wick up the water. Open bonnet, operate screen wash, look for drips from washer tubes and at joints.

Dry out plug holes. Get a turkey baster , suck up as much water as you can, finish off with kitchen towel to wick up the water. Run engine to fully warm and watch for steam from the channel cover to confirm it is the core plugs.

Wade in. Replace head with one that has nice clean shiny cam valley.

Wade in. Round the plug torx heads. Have core plugs replaced at machine shop.

Turkey basters are in stock NOW! Often hard to find at other times of the year.

Also good for Adding water to battery. Exchanging power steering fluid.

Even a leak so small that it can't be detected without a pressure test will cause a drop in coolant level over a period of time. If it's never needed topping up, it sure ain't coolant!

Then why are you asking here?

Chris

Even a leak so small that it can't be detected without a pressure test will cause a drop in coolant level over a period of time. If it's never needed topping up, it sure ain't coolant!

Then why are you asking here?

Chris

Like he said. If you're having to add coolant then fix the core plugs, i= f =

not don't. Are they smooth or have they got a hex head?

I didn't ask for a diagnosis. I came here to ask about likely cost of replacing the core plugs.

"Mrcheerful" wrote >>

OK next question. How is this best introduced? Reading about it suggests that the engine needs to be hot (yes I know the precautions) but it's not very effective doing it through the header tank because it takes time to get into circulation.

The head would need to come off and be machined, likely cost all in about 750 quid upwards.

the coolant system is continually flowing into the top of the header tank so it wouldn't take long to get around. If you wanted to ensure it all went right in straight away then drain the coolant till the header is empty and let another couple of cup fulls fall out, then pour the k seal straight in and add a little coolant on top, just enough to cover the bottom of the tank, that way you know the kseal is right in the system.

Thank you. If we get a quote that gives us an idea of a starting point. k-seal is definitely the first thing to try.

Dip the end of your finger in it and taste it. Antifreeze tastes radically different, sweet or bitter. No more than a fingertip and no drinking the whole contents though.