Crank bolt....(stuck..)

give the bolt a whack sideways first, use a bar in the ring-gear to lock the engine, either where the starter goes or if it has a lower flywheel cover through there, it is a waste of time putting it in gear, it never works if they are even normal tightness.

mrcheerful

The message from "mrcheerful ." contains these words:

It's worked for me a few times, but for those occasions when it hasn't, putting a long bar on the socket, getting a mate to put their foot on the end of it and blipping the starter has always done the trick.

but since the water pump has gone, presumably the belt is no longer connecting top and bottom, so turning on the starter might bend even more valves.

mrcheerful

*thinks about threads and way engine rotates*

sounds like a plan. Failing that I'll jam the ring gear. Thanks to both of you.

No - I've not taken the cambelt off yet. The waterpump bearing feels like it's collapsed and it's piddling coolant like no tomorrow but it's crankable.

String down one of the plug holes when the engine is at BDC. It's never failed me if the 'spanner on the bolt and turn the starter' doesn't work.

John

The message from "mrcheerful ." contains these words:

Yeah, but in most cases someone's already turned it over a few times to see if it'll start before realising what's happened.

Yep, I had to do this on a Ford Probe V6 where everything else failed to get it off.Worked fine, and was the usual method of getting them off,according to the owners club, when access to air tools is not possible. I just put the socket on a breaker bar, had then wedged against the ground almost,then turned it over, worked 2nd turn. Alan.

I don't really want to clean the pistons out beaing that the valves have not been bent but it's an idea for a camblet that's let go.

Clockwise thread ?

Nothing in the Haynes BOL to indicate it's a righ hander. Mind you that's not conclusive of course.

Assume you're using shedloads of WD40 and giving it 10-20 minutes to do its thing?

Plus gas actually and It's been dosed last night and the night before and just before I go to the train station to pick the owner up.

Oh yeah, I'd forgot the camshaft wasn't in last time I did it.

John

3/4 drive socket 6' scaffold pole all wheels chocked handbrake all the way up in gear mrs on the brake pedal

after getting the mrs to press the brake pedal I was hanging onto the bar for around 10-15 seconds before the nut turned

someone told me that spraying it in vinegar would solve the problem, but I've never had to do another one so I can't comment on that yet

Impact. Whack the spanner with a large hammer.

No space.

We eventually towed it and the garage airhammer nailed it in 20 seconds. Guy wouldn't even take a fiver for his trouble which was nice of him.

Have the waterpump out now and it feels fine *sigh* I'd have been happier with a clearly wrecked on myself as that would have been evidence of the leak point. Mind you I cannot see what else it can be, and the cambelt was at 55k so at least it's having a cambelt and tensioner swap even if the waterpump didn't need doing.

Unless the engine runs in the opposite way to normal it will be a normal thread as it will tend to self tighten with it running.

The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

If it runs the opposite way to normal it'll still be threaded to self-tighten so the blipping the starter trick will still work.