FAO SteveH or anyone who can help!

Chaps

SWMBO has a 2001 Alfa Spider. She is starting to hate it. Along with the airbag light now constantly lit, the roof leaking, and an uneven idle there is something else wrong. These issues will hopefully get sorted under warranty, but this other problem is bothering us. The car needs to be used tomorrow for a 200 mile trip, and we're both a little anxious. Her more than me, I won't be in it :)

It's been squeeking, nay squeeling, nay screaming, from the offside (drivers?) rear wheel for some time now. When the car is cold, there is no problem, but drive it for 5 or 10 minutes and it starts. If you lightly apply the brakes, then the noise stops. And I mean lightly, as if the caliper is just brushing against the disc. If you turn the wheel slightly clockwise whilst driving, the noise stops. But, as soon as you straighten up again, the screeching starts. Oh, after a long drive that wheel is particularly hotter than the others. You could not touch it for more than half a second without pulling away, surely that is not right?

There doesn't seem to be any change in the feedback to the steering wheel, no wobbling or anything. Saying that, if it's the rear then there probably wouldn't be.

I thought it might be the brake on that wheel binding? So, I took the wheel off earlier to look at the disc/caliper. I don't know what I was looking for, so I took some pictures[1] for you helpful guys to look at :)

Now, I've put the wheel back on and been for a spin. The noise is still there, but a hell of a lot less than before. Also, the wheel was taken off about a month ago by a family member to see if he could sort this problem, and for a week or so afterwards the problem was gone. Only to return.

I hope someone can make sense of my post, and I would appreciate any pointers [2]

Thanks

Dan

[1]Wheel hub -
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Brake Disc Top Edge -
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Suspension -
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SWMBO's Next Car ;) -
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[2] Apart from the, 'You shouldn't have bought an Alfa' replies. :)
Reply to
spam
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Sticky caliper / slide / brake pad(s).

Dismantle- clean - coat non friction surfaces in copper grease, reassemble.

Oh, and ease the pistons in the caliper as well if they are sticking.

Not hugely complicated, maybe an hour if you take your time and do both sides. The brakes will feel better afterwards and the car may even go and handle better as well. (Depending on the severity of the problem)

Reply to
Bob Sherunckle

Probably the wiring for seatbelt pre-tensioner / sensor in the seat (tells the ECU there's someone sat in the seat).

Look under the seat for a multiplug connector. Unplug, clean, plug back in.

You'll more than likely have to take the car to a dealer to get the ECU reset, though.

Probably just needs a few tweaks to the tensioners. I was quite good at doing that with my old Golf.

MAF sensor. Bog standard Bosch part, every car that uses it has the same problems with it. They're about 80 quid on an exchange basis, and 5 mins to fit.

Sticky caliper. Strip, clean, replace.

Reply to
SteveH

-=D@n=- ( snipped-for-privacy@invalid.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

First gut reaction was that it sounds like a VERY mullered wheel bearing. If it is, then *potentially* it could seize. You should be able to feel plenty of movement if you jack the car up and wiggle the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock, 12 and 6 o'clock.

Then I looked at the pics - that shot of the rear disk looks very mucky, as if it's not working properly. The shot of the disk edge is impossible to tell anything from. It could be that you're trying to show a big buildup of scale on the disk edge - if so, go round it wiv an 'ammer, and tap it all off. It could be that it's stopping the caliper moving properly. It could be that the rear pads are worn out. It could be that the caliper's sticking.

I think, given that shot of the disk, I'd be looking at that brake in more detail, but I'd certainly check the bearing first.

Reply to
Adrian

id agree with Adrian, the state of the disc is showing signs of a calliper not working correctly, signs of the brake grabbing on, possible from a sticking calliper, ive had once or twice seen where the brake hose blocks ( collapses inside ) and allows the calliper to stay on when the pedal is released, also as said earlier re-check the wheel bearing play.

Reply to
reg

Given the colour of the rust on the first picture, the brake is binding (the rust has turned redish due to excess heat). The most likely cause of this is the brake pads seized in the caliper. Ifyou remove the caliper, you should be able to move the pads in their carrier fairly easily (at the most with a very gentle lever). If the pads don't move, and require a great amount of effort to move (big screwdriver or hammer + chisel), then that's the problem. It's a case of removing the pads, cleaning where the pads slide on, and also the contact points on the pad backing plates, then checking that they can be moved in the carrier freely (if they don't move freely, then you've not cleaned everything well enouhg!!). Then reassemble applying some copper grease to the contact points between the carrier and pads. I'll also mention, that just from looking at the picture, I'd guess that the brake lining would be starting to break away the backing plate, just going by how cooked the pads look, and I would make sure you have a spare set of pads handy, before stripping the old ones out.

If that doesn't solve you're problem, then the chances are that either the caliper has seized or the handbrake cable has seized. If the handbrake lever on the caliper is back against it's stop with the handbrake off, then chances are the handbrake cable is seized (or somebody has adjusted it to much) It's always worthwhile getting someone to operate the handbrake while you watch that lever is returning freely. If the lever is returning against it's stop, then it's most likely the caliper that's seized.

The noise is most likely just the pads rubbing. It may be something else, but stopping the brakes sticking would be my first concern.

Reply to
Moray Cuthill

reg ( snipped-for-privacy@somewhere.fsten.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Given the state of the disk, I'd say it's the other way round - not coming on, rather than not releasing - look at the rusty marks in the middle of the wear face.

Reply to
Adrian

wouldn't explain why it was getting hot to the touch though, unless the bearing was seizing.

Reply to
reg

reg ( snipped-for-privacy@somewhere.fsten.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Mmmm. True. Unless the *other* side of the disk is very shiny with a badly worn pad?

Reply to
Adrian

Ok, I have less than no experience with car maintenance. But, from reading your post and the ones below I'm fairly confident it's a brake problem. One that I'd be happier letting someone with training and experience sort out under warranty.

Problem is though, Mangoletsi are shit. I asked them to look at it a while back, and they couldn't get it to happen when they drove it. Bollocks they couldn't. I'll try either Caledonian in Warrington, or find a specialist somewhere that won't invalidate the warranty.

Thanks for your reply.

Reply to
spam

I believe so, I gave up looking for it when I read somewhere that I'd need to take it in to get the ECU reset anyway.

Hmmm, a dealer (shriek!) or specialist job methinks. Do you know any decent Alfa specialists in the NW? You heard of 'Wigan Paul'?

Heheh, you read like the FAQ on

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;) The idling is usually ok, but this problem has now come back. I'll get that sorted on it's trip to the garage.

I'm glad it sounds like something simple. As I said to Bob though, I'm not nearly enough qualified/experienced/skilled to try and fettle with something as vital as brakes on a car.

Thanks for your reply Steve

Reply to
spam

That was one of my thoughts. But I had a '94 Escrote TD many years ago with a knackered stub axle (?) that made it break the bearings *4* times in six months. I think I'd recognise the noise and feel of buggered bearings. I had the car on the jack earlier, and there was no movement at all from the wheel.

Well, I was trying to show the build-up of rusty dust on the edge. I wasn't sure if that was good or bad. Trying to take a picture with a camera you don't understand, lay on the drive wiggling one leg to try and trigger the security floodlight takes some doing!

The bearings are under the cap in the centre of the hub, yes? I didn't take the cap off, but had a cursory glance at it and it looked ok and well greased up. No heat or signs of heat damage either.

Thanks for your reply

Reply to
spam

Thanks for your comments, Reg.

Reply to
spam

Ahhh, yes. The dust was very red.

Ok, definitely out of my scope. I'm going to ring around tomorrow and get it booked in for the weekend. If it's just a sticky brake, then I'm not too worried about the journey tomorrow. It's just the damn noise!

Thanks for your reply.

Reply to
spam

It's nearly 16 years since I moved from the north west, PeteM probably knows better. The specialist I knew up there (Alberto's) has closed, although I've heard good things about Alfatune in St. Helens and Peak Alfa in Hope.

Have a look at the handle(s) / clamp(s) that latch the roof to the windscreen, these often cause problems. Other than that, some rubber lubricant to liven up the seals around the doors might help.

Thost Bosch MAF units are a heap of junk - everyone seems to use them, they've been responsible for rough running Alfas and VWs in particular.

Reply to
SteveH

St Helens would be great, that's only ten minutes from us. I'll look them up.

Righto.

I knew that everyone with a GTV/Spider has basically had trouble with them, didn't know about VW.

Reply to
spam
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Not on these, it'll be the Idle Valve. They use Magneti Marrelli anyway.

Yup, very common.

Reply to
Andy Hewitt

Unfortunately. All Alfas after about 1996 are amongst some of the most unreliable cars ever built.

As Steve says, the air bag is going to be a failure in a seat circuit (most likely), check all connections. Whatever you do though DO NOT stick an ohm meter up the wires. It can end in expensive tears though, we often ended up replacing air bag, loom and ECU sometimes.

Expect problems if it's a Euro import too, they fitted the LHD wiring to those, and then modified it so you couldn't get the parts.

Uneven idle is likely to be a sticking idle control valve. Cleaning it can work, but more often ends in replacement. It could also be the start of the variable cam actuator failing too (do you get a rattle from the engine for the first few minutes?).

Yup, standard problem on all Alfas of this era. The calipers and handbrake were never setup right at the factory, you need to strip down and reset. You will also need to push the pistons out slightly, and remove (carefully) the ridge of rust that builds up.

It'll be the rear, we did two or three a day on average.

You need to remove all that corrosion first. Release the handbrake cable fully before resetting the calipers. Oh, and grease the ends of the cables thoroughy, it'll help to stop them freezing up in the winter (another common fault).

Not if you want a reliable car, that is correct - at least not from that era.

Oh, and keep checking the oil level, these drink it - up to a litre every 1000 miles is normal!

Reply to
Andy Hewitt

I stand corrected..... why the difference to a 156 TSpark, then, which uses the Bosch part?

Reply to
SteveH

Who can I complain to - our 156 hasn't used a drop of oil in 4k miles.

That's just not right.

Reply to
SteveH

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