Focus stat

On a 1.8 04 petrol focus.

Is getting the the stat as simple as undoing 3 torx screws and that small top hose and pulling that housing away and swapping the stat in situ ?

Or do the who thing need removing. The Ford parts guy said take it all off and replace the housing as its likely that stat hatch will no seal again at a cost of £139 vs the £14 for stat and seal.

Thanks

Reply to
Jeff
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you can just change the stat as simply as that, they don't leak. if the housing is leaking where it meets the block or from the bolts then you need the whole lot.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Personnally I would risk just the stat to begin with. Yes the housings do warp and leak and there isnt a gasket betwixt them, but if the warp isnt too bad you can make a gasket and help it along with some blue hymolar.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Personnally I would risk just the stat to begin with. Yes the housings do warp and leak and there isnt a gasket betwixt them, but if the warp isnt too bad you can make a gasket and help it along with some blue hymolar.

Tim..

Purely based on cost I am just doing the stat, which i ordered from ford. £18.69 for stat and seal from ford as i've been told not to skimp with pattern parts as ford engines can be fussy. One from eurocarparts was just £11 with seal. Just need to collect it and get on with it. Maybe an hour hour and a half with a tea and hunting for a torx and water pump pliers, may not need to undo that top hose on the stat, might make life easier. Access looks good for once its right in front of me :) no removing of many parts, so far this engine has been a pleasure to work on lol till I need to change the cylinder head temp sensor which apparently needs the alternator removing on the 1.8 that sensor apparently controls the temp needle on the dash. I thought I would start with the stat and if that fails then that.

Thanks for the tip about the blue hymolar I'll google it sounds like something worth having.

Reply to
Jeff

No, the temp gauge is driven entirely from the ECU and is not linear.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

No, the temp gauge is driven entirely from the ECU and is not linear.

Tim..

Evenin' Tim,

So could the fault lie within the ECU as opposed to the thermostat ?

The symptoms that I have are driving the car at 30mph around the temp needle climbs to about 25/30% if use the heating it goes down, if I turn the heating it goes up. The only time it maintains at the 12 oclock position or

90 odd is if at 70 when the engine is working harder.

I'm starting to think I have a faulty speedo as the speed needle has dropped to zero for less than 10 seconds a handful of times recently. I have a new speed sensor to fit just haven't gotten round to it which is what I was thinking the fault was. But with the added temp needle prob I wonder... although could be 2 seperate faults with. As I have the parts and its cheap worth ruling out with a new thermostat and speed sensor although that job looks a little tricky more so getting a retaining pin out and then the sensor.

I suppose get those done and see where I am at

Reply to
Jeff

Thermostat.

VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor.) Don't attempt to fit the new one unless you got a new securing pin with it. You *will* destroy the old one on removal. There are a lot of 'how-to's' on this if you consult Mr Google. Take care to avoid breaking the old sensor off in the housing; even 'mechanics' have been known to do so.

Sounds like a good plan...

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Thermostat.

VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor.) Don't attempt to fit the new one unless you got a new securing pin with it. You *will* destroy the old one on removal. There are a lot of 'how-to's' on this if you consult Mr Google. Take care to avoid breaking the old sensor off in the housing; even 'mechanics' have been known to do so.

Sounds like a good plan...

Chris

Ford parts chap advised buy the pin as well, so got it ready to fit. Looks fiddly and awkward, been putting it off for a month now! The issue is breaking the pin or the sensor! I guess the advice is go slow, lube, and small twisting and wiggling movements to get it out. Plenty folks who snap it have had to drill it out! always the way with car work getting the old crap off is a pain new ones go one usually happily.

Reply to
Jeff
[...]

Here's what I posted before:

Using a pair of pliers, bend the flat clip attached to the pin out of the way. (It does not go in to the hole; it just presses on the casting.) It will probably detach itself when you do this. Grip the pin with a pair of side-cutters close to the transmission housing and then use the side- cutters to lever the pin out. You will have to keep repositioning the side-cutters along the length of the pin as it gradually moves.

Others have suggested clamping mole grips on the pin, then tapping the mole grips with a hammer. I tried that, but it didn't work for me. YMMV.

Once the pin is removed, the VSS is still a bit hard to get out. It has two O-rings on it that make it a tight fit in the housing. DO NOT be tempted to try to knock it upwards with a drift and hammer. This might result in the sensor breaking, leaving half of it in the hole!

In the limited space available wrap a piece of rag around the sensor and rock it GENTLY from side to side and twist it as you pull upwards. Take your time and it will eventually come out. Don't apply any significant sideways force!

It has been suggested that removing the transmission oil level plug helps make removal easier; the assumption is that it releases the vacuum effect caused by pulling the sensor out. I can't verify this as I didn't bother.

I agonised for ages before tackling mine, but once I took the plunge I did it in less than 20 minutes.

HTH

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan
[...]

Here's what I posted before:

Using a pair of pliers, bend the flat clip attached to the pin out of the way. (It does not go in to the hole; it just presses on the casting.) It will probably detach itself when you do this. Grip the pin with a pair of side-cutters close to the transmission housing and then use the side- cutters to lever the pin out. You will have to keep repositioning the side-cutters along the length of the pin as it gradually moves.

Others have suggested clamping mole grips on the pin, then tapping the mole grips with a hammer. I tried that, but it didn't work for me. YMMV.

Once the pin is removed, the VSS is still a bit hard to get out. It has two O-rings on it that make it a tight fit in the housing. DO NOT be tempted to try to knock it upwards with a drift and hammer. This might result in the sensor breaking, leaving half of it in the hole!

In the limited space available wrap a piece of rag around the sensor and rock it GENTLY from side to side and twist it as you pull upwards. Take your time and it will eventually come out. Don't apply any significant sideways force!

It has been suggested that removing the transmission oil level plug helps make removal easier; the assumption is that it releases the vacuum effect caused by pulling the sensor out. I can't verify this as I didn't bother.

I agonised for ages before tackling mine, but once I took the plunge I did it in less than 20 minutes.

HTH

Chris

Thanks Chris that was just the encouragement and guidance I was after. Roll on a quite moment to have a go. Hopefully the weekend. I shall post back my results.

Reply to
Jeff

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