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Ford Orion Diesel - Fuel Filter Change

Hi, im just getting into car maintenance, and am working my way through changing the filters, im on to the fuel filter now. Now, ive got the Haynes manual, but the illustrated filter doesnt resemble mine at all, so im a little confused.

Car is a 92 Orion 1.8 diesel (non turbo).

All i can determine is basically the inlet and outlet. here is a picture:

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this thread seems to talk about something very like this, although i dont have the new filter so i cant see how it works yet;

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Can somone point out the draining spigot (i currently think its the thing on the end of the outlet fixture)? It says (to drain) connect a pipe to the spigot and into a bottle or something, and open the drain c*ck by unscrewing the knurled wheel. Not really sure about this drain c*ck thing...

Is it necessary to drain the old filter of water, before replacing it?? this is what it sounds like in the manual.

The manual refers to a vent screw on the filter head - wheres that??

Getting air into the fuel injector, i gather this just happens, but is bled while idling the engine after filer renewal?

One last thing, if the car is not running, the fuel pump is not pumping, so diesel is not going to squirt all over the place when i detatch the hoses (except from whats in the pipes already).. am i correct?

If the link to the thread above is accurate, then ill go with that, but im just not sure yet.

Any tips ould be great! thanks, john.

PS sorry about the long line length above

Reply to
John
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Ive done the change over, and am now faced with bleeding the fuel system. Right now the starter motor turns, but wont start the engine.

Haynes manual has a description of the the turbo models filter setup, which describes mine pretty much exactly, although mines not a turbo? I have the black button plunger which is expressly described as not being on the non-turbo model.

Ive cranked it more than id like to now, so would like to bleed it via the bleed nipple on the bottom of the filter (which shouldnt be there according to haynes description). If i can purge all air up to that point, is it just a case of keep cranking until it gets through the injector??

any tips would be great! thanks, john.

Reply to
John

It helps to bleed the pump & injectors too, it's easier with 2 people. Slacken off the injector pipe to injector nuts one turn (If it's stuck on as it's corroded leave it alone, the pipes can fracture which is boring), crank the engine until diesel leaks at the nut (keep fingers clear, you have to try to get a high pressure diesel injury but it's not pleasnt if you do manage it) then tighten the nut up & start engine. Obviously I would never dream of bypassing this procedure with a quick shot of easystart.

Reply to
DuncanWood

thanks duncan, by the look of the injector pipe nuts, i dont dare touch them. If i make sure the filter is full (gonna have to unscrew it and sqeeze in some diesel quickly), is it then possible to get the car towed and just gently bring it into gear, waiting for the engine to fire up (with the ignition obviously on)??

if this is extremely bad practice id like to know before i try it!

PS what exactly is easystart? had a search on google and coudlnt get anything up for it

Reply to
John

a 2 or 300 metre pull start did the trick...

thought id post the solution for anyone else with fuel filter probs.

Reply to
John

Easystarts a can of ether, somewhat necessary for old tractors:-) Most car accessory shops sell it or CarPlan Engine starter

Reply to
DuncanWood

The message from DuncanWood contains these words:

Just a whiff though - not a bucketload. The cylinder pressures can get rather sudden with ether.

Always amazed me that the glue-sniffing brigade concentrate on things like butane when there's luvverly ether just waiting in a can for 'em.

Reply to
Guy King

Tells you all you need to lnow about them really

Reply to
DuncanWood

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