A short while ago I was advised that one bottom ball joint on the lower swinging arm would require replacing soon. I've checked this and I've got quite a lot of up and down movement when the weight is taken off the wheel. Probably about 10mm.
I've just check the other side and it also has a modest but lesser amount of movement.
Should there be any movement at all? I feel it's unusual for both n/s and o/s to go at the same time!
Generally how easy is it to break the ball joint taper if I replace then. I have a scissors type ball joint separator but it the ball joint looks a big beast to break.
Scissors-style ones are fantastic, but only really any good for track rod ends (steering arms).
To do yours you'll basically need a scaffold pole (or other similarly strong bar). Then basically undo the pinch bolt (you'll need to use a ring spanner, positioned so that a part of the suspension prevents it from turning, to work against a socket), and possibly need to tap that out to remove it with a hammer. Then give the lower arm a good few whacks with a hammer to free it up a bit, and then use the carefully positioned bar as a lever to lower it down.
Then to get the balljoint off you *might* need to remove the whole lower arm if it's riveted on (not difficult, but the bolts are done up to a very high torque, so it seems to take an age to undo them IIRC) and drill or angle-grind the rivets off (or take it to someone who can do that for you). You may well then find that the replacement part is a nut + bolt job, and comes supplied with new nylock nuts.
I have used scissor arms on bigger joints before but take your point.
The ball joint has 3 small bolts holding it to the lower wishbone. It has one nut above the taper.
One concern is access to this big nut. It seems to be 24mm with no access above to use a socket. There's not enough clearance for an offset ring. Sounds like fun!
Going by one of your other posts, it's an old style transit as the ball joint is held into the wishbone by three bolts. There should be minimal play in these ball joints, due to the fact that they're under tension when loaded and so are more likely to seperate when worn, unlike other suspension designs where the ball joints are under compression and not likely to seperate when worn. Certainly at work, we replace them if there is any noticeable play. 5mm is cause for concern, but at 10mm I'm surprised the ball joint is still in one peice!
Replacement is simple with the right tools. Remove the strut (4 bolts), push it up and tie it up with a bit string. Then you'll need a socket (27mm IIRC), an extension and a big bar (3/4" drive socket set is recommended!) to remove the nut securing ball joint to the hub carrier. Once the nut is off, there are several options to remove the ball joint. At work we have a big Sykes Picavant scissor type ball joint splitter which fits, and this is the best option. I have also split them using the hammer fork type splitters, and by hitting the side of the hub carrier with a lump hammer. If you're struggling, another option is to put the nut back on, along with the strut and wheel, and lower the van back onto the ground. Then try hitting the side hub carrier with the lump hammer where the ball joint goes into it. The extra weight of the vehicle should help get the ball joint out. Obviously this can be quite dangerous so make sure you can't get crushed should something fail (ie the ball joint seperate). Once that's done, it's just a case of taking out the remaining three bolts, then tapping the complete ball joint out the wishbone, and putting the new one in. It's also worth mentioning that it is known for the bolts to seize in. If that's the case, the only option is to drill enough of the ends so they'll clear the wishbone.
I tried with my old scissors splitter but had to get a new one with enough throat to cope with the size. It finally gave after some taps.
I recall someone undoing a ball join bolts part way before using a splitter. His problem was then that the whole joint would turn rather than just the nut. He was stuck for several hours and I never go to know what he did for a solution. Ever since then, my policy has been to completely undo a ball joint and risk damage to a thread than be in his predicament.
Many thanks for your post. One side done and the other to go.
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