have a listen at the back while you operate the remote, if there is some noise from the lock then you probably need to clean and lubricate the mechanism, if no noise at all then there is probably a wire broken leading to the lock. If the wiring flexes every time the tailgate opens (probable) then that will be very likely the area to look at first.
Taking the shopping back to the car this morning at Morrisson's my wife got to the boot door of my Golf (Mk 4 Diesel 02) before I had unlocked it, and she just opened it, and the alarm went off.
After a bit of a check it seems that when I lock the car with the remote, the boot door is staying unlocked.
The worrying thing is I've no idea how long this has been going on.
I appear to be able to secure the door by physically turning the key in it, which is something - but unlocking it is a bit tricky without the alarm sounding.
I've got an idea this is a fairly common fault, is that right?
What sort of cost am I looking at to get it sorted?
Thanks.
All the best, Angus Manwaring. (for e-mail remove ANTISPEM)
I need your memories for the Amiga Games Database: A collection of Amiga Game reviews by Amiga players
That makes a lot of sense, and I had planned to get my son to check the connector was sending juice this morning, but he didn't have his tools so I bought the unit (12 quid) anyway. I know, I'm a crazy impulsive fool. :)
My currebt problem is that I have been unable to shift the two pins that secure the unit on to the boot door. They are very small but have a hex on the end, but my smallest socket was just too big - I think its about 3 mil.
I went to a car spares shop but they didn't have anything that small either.
I've tried the pliers but I was beginning to tear up the end of the pins.
Any thoughts?
All the best, Angus Manwaring. (for e-mail remove ANTISPEM)
I need your memories for the Amiga Games Database: A collection of Amiga Game reviews by Amiga players
Somewhere like maplins would have something that small, or one of those cheap quarter drive socket sets from a pound shop, maybe. Or a nice sharp pair of mole grips. Or even make your own socket, don't laugh, it is not too hard, just find a bit of tube a little smaller inside than the nut/bolt, heat the end to red and tap it over the nut (you may need to open it a little first, use a punch or screwdriver) and carefully pull it off, let it cool and use it as a socket.
It turns out that the 2 pins needed to be turned clockwise, just 90 degrees - at the other end of each pin is a conventional screw head that then stands proud enough of the unit, so that you can slide the unit across, and lift it free from the bracket that the screw heads were clamping the unit to.
You can just unscrew them with a screw driver and put them in the new unit.
However.......... unfortunately for me, my 12 pound gamble was a failure, and the new unit hasn't solved the problem, because no power is reaching the unit.
Bother! :)
A guy made a visual inspection of all my fuses today and thought they were all okay - and my son reckons that the various asscoiated connectors in the boot are okay, so I guess that leaves the wiring.
Any likely areas that moght be the problem, or any further thoughts?
Cheers - and have great weekends.
All the best, Angus Manwaring. (for e-mail remove ANTISPEM)
I need your memories for the Amiga Games Database: A collection of Amiga Game reviews by Amiga players
The thing is, there are (I think) 3 lots of wires headed for the boot door area.
There's obviously the one that operates the actuator to lock it, but that won't work if the one that tells the car if the boot door is open is not doing its thing.
And I think there's another.
So any likely suspects regarding the location of the fault would be most welcome - or its call the auto-electrics guy. :(
All the best, Angus Manwaring. (for e-mail remove ANTISPEM)
I need your memories for the Amiga Games Database: A collection of Amiga Game reviews by Amiga players
Actually no! If they get there by the rubber flexible grommet next to the hinge then they snap within an inch of that, if somebody decided to avoid that then the contact pads corrode.
I thought you was being funny aswell. I'd echo what Duncan said those rubber grommets can be a likly point to search for damaged wiring. If the grommet or boot perishes or get damaged somehow leaves the wiring exposed to damage.
Right, sorry to be thick - how do I check a given wire?
My friend is going to bring voltage checker thingy in to work tomorrow, so I guess I can use that to see if any power is coming through the socket, but how would I check if (for example) an earth wire was broken somewhere, without stripping it out of the car so I could check the continuity?
I suspect the amswer to my question is, "Get an auto electrician in, Angus." :)
All the best, Angus Manwaring. (for e-mail remove ANTISPEM)
I need your memories for the Amiga Games Database: A collection of Amiga Game reviews by Amiga players
the way I would do it is to first off get a couple of leads from the battery (fused preferably) and see if the unit actually works in situ. IIRC there will only be two leads to the unit, power is one way to lock, the other way to unlock. in which case an earth is probably not the trouble. With a meter you can see if either wire from the car is given power when the central locking is used, if neither do then you need to go further back in the car till you find somewhere that is powered, the fault will lie between the two. 99 times out of a hundred it will be where the leads are bent each time the tailgate is opened
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