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How dirty an oil filter? (n other chat).

Hi All,

Yesterday I got daughter and her b/f to do an oil and filter change on the 1.2 Corsa we have just bought off his family (she also fitted the replacement rear wiper motor and that works fine again). ;-)

I has (supposedly) been maintained by a couple of local garages up in Scotland and should have had (or supposed to have had) and oil and filter change about 1000 miles ago. However, looking at the paper filter I noticed quite a build up of gunge in the bottom of the folds and wondered if that was 'typical' (of that few miles). I am asking here because I've not come across an open type oil filter before so never really noticed how much crud they collect. I quite like the way the filter sticks up with such good access and so can be changed so easily [1] (and cleanly, there was hardly any spillage).

The engine has done ~150k in case that matters.

The air filter looked 'ok' but the screw heads on the filter box didn't look like they had been touched in a long time (and one couldn't be unscrewed conventionally as it was rusted out). On that there seems to be some oil laying in the tube between the air filter and the throttle body? Is this engine breather oil do we think?

As an aside we also fitted a replacement n/s headlight and whilst doing that saw how much damage the deer strike they had a while back had done to the bumper reinforcement bar (I think we had seen it was bent but not by how much). [2] ;-(

It was only a couple of inches short of the rad but my hydraulic press put it roughly back in shape till the replacement arrives (£27 delivered).

Overall I think I'm impressed with how it is put together and amused that it has a few fancy features (like programmable wiper delay and adjustable headlamp height) but no electric windows. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] Daughter was screwing the filter cover back on by hand and then couldn't tighten it any further. I took it a few more turns (by hand) and I think she thought I had some sort of bionic arm. ;-)

She gently nipped it up with a large adjustable I have but I think I'll look for a suitable, cheap (stamped) ring spanner or strap wrench for them?

[2] Again I'm amazed how durable these plastic bumpers are. The fact that it would also have had to be deformed that far /and/ to bend the bar behind it whilst suffering little or no real damage itself.
Reply to
T i m
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Headlamp adjustment to compensate for load has been a requirement in some European countries for years; I can't remember any car I've owned or driven in the last 20 or so years that didn't have it.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

My old pug vans had headlight adjustment 20 plus years ago al be it on a little lever on each light under the bonnet

Reply to
steve robinson

Yep, we have had it on the 92 Astra as well but it wasn't on my Sierra, isn't on the (92) Rover (internally) or on the kitcar. ;-)

Does the Ka we are selling have one internally do you know (can't remember, it's not here atm).

But then haven't most cars over the last 10(+) years also had electric windows (all ours have currently /except/ the kitcar)?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Well yes, but not an 'adjustable' solution as such.

The other things is the range of these plastic insert / rivets they use. Under the front bumper are the ones that use a plastic 'nail' you can extract to release but under the ends of the wheel arch trims are the type you have to push the pin through to release?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

I use a parallel pin punch and a little hammer on those.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Yeah, I just pushed it in / through with the fine screwdriver blade on my Leatherman PST II (it was on me ) but my question why use 'non reusable in that particular role on the basis you probably won't keep the pin in the rivet nor retrieve it from the sill but not in other places?

I guess an answer is that you wouldn't need to take the wheel trim off that often but then you probably wouldn't with the front bumper either?

Oh well ...

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

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