How to check Fiesta drop links?

I'm getting a new knocking/bumping noise from the front end when going over bumps. I thought I'd check the drop links at the front, so I jacked up both sides at the sill points, took the wheels off, and tried to push/pull the drop links about. But they seemed stiff enough. Should I be doing something else to make this a better test? Like maybe using a spring compressor? Or can they actually be worn, and yet still feel stiff?

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi
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You need to disconnect one end of one drop link, then you can feel if there is play in the other three joints of the link. also check the a/r bar rubbers as they are often the cause of noises.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Thanks, will do. I did actually see the ARB moving inside the rubber if I pushed it hard enough, but I don't know how much movement would be expected; after all, it is made of rubber. It did actually pass an MOT since the noise started, but I don't know how the tester would check drop links and bushes while the car's weight is on the wheels.

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi

the arb bushes should not have any visible up and down movement, they are not part of the mot. drop links would need to be actually broken to fail the mot.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Well, the noise does have a 'rubbery' quality, like someone hitting a tyre with a rubber mallet, but that might just be the tyres. I think I'll replace the bushes, since they're quite cheap, and check the links while I'm at it. Would it make sense to put something like silicone grease inside the bush where it meets the bar, or is it supposed to grip it?

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi

grease them if you want, it soon gets squidged out and washed away. Just make sure it is silicone or red rubber grease. I generally find that wear in drop links shows as noise when cornering, and ar bushes clonk when driving straight on rough surfaces, unmade back alley for instance.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Okay, thanks very much.

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi

Yikes. I don't know if you've personally seen one of these, but there is zero room to get a spanner in there. Even a ratcher spanner. I guess you're supposed to remove the subframe, but it looks like it may be possible to get at it if you can undo the subframe bolts a bit, and just lower it without removing it completely. Is that a sensible thing to try, if done one side at a time?

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi

they are tight, I lower the subframe, but equally. this is the reason people leave them. wait till you do the same job on a late golf.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Okay, thanks. I'll try that. I was thinking of doing it one side at a time so that I wouldn't disturb the position of the subframe. Apparently there's a tool for aligning it, but I'll see if I can come up with something else.

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi

You could undo one side and spring that down, but that would probably be worse than just lowering the back end evenly, I have never used the alignment tool, it is hard to see how alignment could be far out, the bolts are quite a snug fit.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Well, it does seem odd that you should need an alignment tool for something like that. If the bolts are a snug fit, then it would make sense to lower the whole thing.

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi

It's perfectly possible to do it without dropping the subframe by removing the bolt only on one side (loosen the other if you can) and bending the bra cket open sufficiently to get the old rubber out and new one in. The amount of bend required is minimal and thus need not risk damage/fatigue.

It's fiddly, yes, but at least there's no (re)alignment necessary afterward s. If I needed to replace them again I'd do it the same way without a secon d thought.

Mathew

Reply to
Mathew Newton

It's perfectly possible to do it without dropping the subframe by removing the bolt only on one side (loosen the other if you can) and bending the bracket open sufficiently to get the old rubber out and new one in. The amount of bend required is minimal and thus need not risk damage/fatigue.

It's fiddly, yes, but at least there's no (re)alignment necessary afterwards. If I needed to replace them again I'd do it the same way without a second thought.

Mathew

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Interesting suggestion, thanks. I'll try that first.

Reply to
Porky Parcheesi

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