Instructions for Spray Can

I don't know about *written* instructions, but have you tried Youtube?

Reply to
Bod
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They seem to vary by the type of paint. I assume there are no instructions on the can?

I did a door handle for my car using Halfords stuff. Prime in the normal way, then 4 coats of base coat in quick succession - only leaving about 10 minutes between them. Leave to harden for a few days. Flat using 1000 grit wet or dry wet - then four coats of lacquer, again in quick succession. Results were pretty good after a compound and polish, again after leaving a few days to harden fully.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The real trick for a good match to existing metallic paint is to match the angle you're spraying from to the original spraying angle. This is something you can only judge using experience. If you don't do this, then no matter how good a job you do, the join will always show.

Otherwise, what he said.

Reply to
John Williamson

I'd have thought trial and error on a surface which was not important might do it. However you can't just spray paint on bare metal it kind of drops off. Assuming the preparation is done right, then surely its more a practice of technique on another part that will then give the best result when you go for it in reality. I hate metallic paint.

Unless you mean the Irish instructions. Note aim opening in press button toward the job, not at the face. Caution, Paint can be sprayed on other nearby items, so do not wear or place nearby any object that should not be painted.

Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

Pay attention to the re-coat times.

People think that when paint it dry that's it.... Yes paint dries to the touch, but then it cures/oxidises (Notice the diffenece between newly painted day old gloss and a couple of weeks old?)

Some paints, particularly sprays, if you dont recoat within xx many hours you need to leave several weeks.

Hammerite used to be like this!

Reply to
Tom Burton

One thing you could add. Move the can parallel to the surface, don't spray in an arc or you will get uneven coats.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Thanks. One other thing: when they say to clear the nozzle out by turning the can upside down and blowing the propellent out, would that be after every spray session and then waiting for the next session 12 to 15 minutes away; or only just after you've done three or four sessions, and your finishing up? Which would be say after over an hours use if you had four sessions. In other words is the nozzle going to get sealed up with dried paint whilst you are waiting the 15 minutes before you start the next session? Hope that's clear, thanks.

Reply to
T Bently

the paint will dry in the nozzle pretty much as fast as on the car, so yes, give a short upside down spray after each coat

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Would anyone know of any simple written instructions available for someone intending to spray metalic paint on to an item using motor vehicle spray cans please. Thanks.

Reply to
T Bently

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Thanks to all. These instructions below have been cobbled together as simple advice for a complete beginner, about to do some spray painting with a can.

Grateful for any criticism on these instructions or things you think have been omitted.

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If preparing bare metal rub down using an aluminium oxide paper of 80 grit. Treat areas of rust with a rust treatment product. Then use wet and dry abrasive paper (400 grit) to smooth down.

Mask off areas to be painted. If you gradually increase the size of the painted area (i.e. by moving back the masking a little on each coat) it stops the formation of hard edges.

Do not spray in cold, damp, windy or humid weather; or surfaces that have been heated by the sun.

Do not spray base coat on to bare metal, 'use' a primer. Shake the spray can vigorously for several minutes. Spray on several coats at 12 to 15 minute intervals, when paint is dry to the touch. Spray at a distance of 25cm (10") with a side to side motion with the spray overlapping the edges of the area to be sprayed.

Allow 24 hours for primer to dry. Rub down with 1200 grit 'wet and dry' paper, wash with detergent and water and allow to dry. Working in warm and dry conditions are best, with the can at room temperature..

Shake the base coat can vigorously for several minutes, with the ball inside moving about freely. Apply several coats at 12 to 15 minute intervals, until paint is dry to the touch. Shake the can between coats.

After use invert the can upside down with a brief burst of propellant to clear out the spray nozzle.

If using metallic paint, allow 24 hours for paint to dry, then rub down with 1200 grit paper. The paintwork will lose its glossy appearance and become a dull matt finish. Clean with warm detergent water, rinse and then dry.

Apply two coats of clear lacquer allowing the usual 12 to 15 minutes between coats.

Clear the nozzle after use.

Allow new paintwork at least two weeks to harden before using a rubbing compound to blend in the new paintwork.

Reply to
T Bently

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Many thanks. One final point: An an old 'Halfords Advice' leaflet on 'how to spray paint' says to rub down between coats. But on the Halfords spray paint cans it does not say to do this. Is this an ommission, or with the later development of paint cans it's now not necessary?

Reply to
T Bently

rubbing down solid colours or primers is fine, but generally it is not advisable to rub down metallic paints at all. best bet is to have a practice, try it and see the effect for your colour and your skills. the smooth finish to metallics is usually gained by the clear topcoat.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

See my earlier post. Which is the instructions for Halfords metallics at that time. They may have changed it, of course.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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