Leccy window problem (2023 Update)

Nissan Terrano II.

The driver's window got stuck half-way up/down a long time ago so was wedged closed with a lump of wood. The owner happened to touch the switch today and found that the motor was working again so I removed the lump of wood, re-attached the window mechanism to the window, and it worked fine, up and down a few times, until I tried to test the obstruction mechanism on the way up when it stopped working completely again. There's power to the motor but no amount of tapping or switch flicking would make it work again.

We've managed to get the window to close under its own power by pulling upwards on the glass and flicking the switch on and off. It's shut now and it's staying shut until I know why it only works when it feels like it!

Any ideas?

Oh, it is usual for these windows to keep travelling when the switch is released until you flick the switch to the other direction? Coz thass woss happening!

Any help greatly appreciated.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot
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If there is power to the motor when you press the switch, and nothing happens, then the motor is faulty. Make sure you are checking across both wires to the motor as the polarity will reverse depending on which way you press the switch. So you might have ignition power to both motor wires permanently (which would be normal) but the motor isn't getting an earth.

John

Reply to
John

Sounds like it might have 'one touch' switches. A quick press, and the window goes all the way up or down, unless, as you say, switched in the opposite direction. A longer press, and the window stops when the switch is released. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

That was my first thought. It works when it feels like it, it seems, and when it does work it works properly.

It did nothing until we tugged on the window itself. I wonder if the brushes are knackered? I assume the circuitry to stop the motor is inside the motor itself somewhere?

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

Yes, it does have one touch switches but even with a longer press the window still continues to move when the switch is released until it is flicked in the opposite direction.

Do you know if this circuitry is inside the motor itself or is it in the relay box?

When the motor decided it wasn't going to work, the relay was still clicking and supplying power to it.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

Worn brushes then.

Reply to
Conor

I think it might well be, ta.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

AFAIK the one touch control is separate to the motor, or window switch. I have no idea of exactly where it is, but the relay box sounds like a good place to look.

Have you made sure the window is not sticking in the runners. A stuck window will cause the motor to cut out. Just this weekend, one of my rear windows stopped working. A push on the glass whilst operating the switch and it was working again, but I'll give the runners a spray of silicone when I get round to it. It should help prevent it happening again. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

There's no circuitry in the motor. It's a motor fullstop. You can spend the rest of your life guessing what's wrong with it or you can check for power at the motor with the switch pressed and find out if it's the motor or switch / controller / wiring. If you don't have a test light or multimeter, then power up the motor directly to see if it moves.

JOhn

Reply to
John

I'm aware of that and I have tested it. There is power to the motor and it works perfectly well - sometimes. This leads me to agree with Conor's suggestion: that the brushes are worn.

Until I tested the obstruction-sensing feature the window worked fine for about 6 operations up and down; stopping and starting, all the way up and down etc. That's why I wondered where the magic gubbins was that stops the window if there happens to be an obstruction, because if the brushes on the £50+ motor are *not* worn then it is this that is at fault, not the motor.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

Saved myself over £200 on the price of a new Honda regulator from these people:

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(was lucky enough that they had themin). If you need to replace it, would be worth a web enquiry (got a phonecall within 10 minutes of submitting it). Didn't solve my particular problem as it turns out, but I'd have wept if I'd just shelled out for the new replacement...

Reply to
RichardS

Noted. Thanks Richard.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

The controller cuts out the power to the motor if the current goes over a fixed threshold. If you can put a test light / multimeter across the motor wires and operate the switch Up and down untill it fails, you can see then from your test whether there is power there or not. If there is power and the motor isn't going anywhere, then simple: faulty motor. If the controller is switching off, then not so simple. You should be able to tell from the speed and noise of the motor before it stops if there is a fault. Otherwise you'll have to measure the current draw at that motor and compare it to the other windows. You'll need to do this at the controller or else take of the door panels.

John

Reply to
John

The window control box is on the door panel on the UK R20. There have been some on ebay secondhand for about £50. I have exactly the same problem. This box is the likely problem. Swap one from another door and see if it changes the behaviour. Nuisance that it only goes fully up or fully down. Passenger door does NOT do this. That issue of intermittency may be a poor supply out of this control box! Could be a simply naff relay in that box increasing the circuit resistance.

Reply to
Bobo

After 18 years I think it will be on the scrap heap.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

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