Looking for a van while rebuilkd house

Hi

In the process of sorting out a property I have bought

Garden is a mess. I reckon 50+ skip load sof rubbish to come out (including house) over next two years.

I pass local tip daily , so looking for a van .

I drive a 2002 VW Transporter TDi which has 190,000 on clock . has graffiti down the side and dent in back. Its a compnay lease vehicle going back to lease company in September.

What would be a reasonable offer for it. Service history but very very tatty. Will be ideal for waht I do.

My next company vehicle will be a Passat or similar.

Reply to
Big Brian
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Big Brian ( snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

My local tips won't let vans in. Not even my 2cv van with one bin bag in it.

Reply to
Adrian

The message from Adrian contains these words:

Very few do - unless you have the slip of paper that says it's OK. Round here you get a bit of paper from the council to say it's OK to go to the dump with your trailer/van/pantechnicon - but of course it still has to be domestic waste not trade waste.

Reply to
Guy King

nor ours and it also keeps an eye on the number of trips you make in a car !

Reply to
reg

With the van , ill be making 1 trip a week , sometimes two.

My local tip doesnt allow vans at peak times (weekends 8-10 am and 12 to 2pm and again 2 to 4:30pm) so limited a bit , but can work around those as required.

Just seems daft that I have all this stuff to get shot off and go past the dump daily.

Reply to
Big Brian

Big Brian ( snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

You're lucky.

Reply to
Adrian

So your only allowed in between 10 & 12?

If you can tell us more details about the van, I'd be able to get you a price with Glass's

Roughly a 2002 Volkswagen Transporter 2.5 TDi LWB with 190k is worth around £5300, so I would expect to pay around £4000 before auction

Reply to
A C

Vans of the Transit / Transporter type that are a few years old seem to fetch astonishingly-high prices (compared to cars of a similar age /mileage) when sold at the local auction (Milton Keynes). In view of the comments about such vans being turned away from Council tips maybe a trailer would be the best solution?

Reply to
DB.

Vauxhall Carlton estate all the way! ..although one day you'll be leaving the car at the tip...

Reply to
adder1969

If you can get the Diamond (3.0 24V Q-car estate) you won't even want to stop at the tip. You'll just want to drive all day. Until you run out of money for playing at sub-20mpg...

Reply to
PC Paul

Seconded. This, by the way, is my specialist subject. Sort of.

If you're not doing many miles get a 2.6 Straight 6 or a 3.0 24v Diamond Estate if you're lucky enough to find one and it's a goodun. Don't bother with the later 2 litre one's as they're quite underpowered compared with the earlier ones, and even when de-catted, IMHO, don't feel as pokey (possibly due to the different compression ratio).

For a cheap workhorse you want an early 2 litre Estate - the 20SE engine not the C20NE one (the C stands for Cat, NE/SE denote compression ratios). Google for info and you'll probably find out, but I think it's something like 1990 that the catted engines were introduced (it was before the 1991 facelift I'm fairly sure). *If* you can find a relatively rust free one with a good running 20SE engine then go for it. Superb mpg, reasonable power, bulletproof mechanicals and fantastic loadspace.

-- "For want of the price of tea and a slice, the old man died."

Reply to
AstraVanMan

Mine's a '90 facelifted non-cat 2.0 and the pulling power (of loads not of women) is really quite good.

The problem with a lot of these though is that they try to return themselves to the ground in the form of rust. I find that the engine oil leak does some good for the front end but not for the back :-)

Suspension bushes can be a problem - not expensive but can be fiddly to fit.

Reply to
adder1969

I've had a few Carltons - one of them (pre-cat 2 litre, F reg) had an oil leak - it got to using shit loads, and eventually I got around to replacing the oil pressure switch (or sender, if you will) and it completely cured it. As far as rust went, once you know where to look, it's quite simple to tell a goodun - mine failed on sills and the PITA welding required on the rear chassis rails - and obviously rear arches are worth looking out for. If they're solid, then it should be fine - that's how I could easily verify my last Carlton was a good one, and it pretty much sailed through 2 MOT tests in the time I had it.

Not ever needed to do any, bar drop links, which were piss.

-- "They said to me 'You could be anyone you wanted to be', but I was realistic and only ever aimed to be me, which I already was. So I gave up trying."

Reply to
AstraVanMan

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