Metro 1.3 Rev Counter

My rev counter's still twitchy, and it's starting to bug me. As the weather's crap, and the dark nights are here, any pointers as to what it's likely to be are much appreciated :)

I'm thinking the counter itself, the coil, or the silly pointless dizzy - Best guess it's not the dizzy, as the amplifier packs seem to either work or not. Don't know if the car's down on power or not as it's been this way since I bought it, although it does seem a bit down on power compared to what I'd expect from the 1275 engine, but that's compared to 998s and 1098s I've had in the past, never driven a 1275 before this one.

Reply to
Stuffed
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Also sprach "Stuffed" :-

When I had this happen on a Maestro dash (same pod) it was the Tick Film tacho module inside the instrument cluster which had unsoldered itself. IIRC it was the jaw-shaped leg which had come off the thickfilm device itself. It was making intermittant contact. Try slapping the pod to see if it changes state.

Be quick with the smouldering iron 'cos it's a low-mass device and will overheat quickly if you get it too hot.

Reply to
Guy King

I still haven't got round to this, but I was thinking, the fault you describe should mean it's always flaky, shouldn't it? Mine's not - Sometimes it's steady across the range, other times it's flickery from about 1500 to

3000, usually more at about 1800 - 2200 though. Would've thought a duff module would be jumpy at any point?

Oh joy. My soldering skills are well hidden at the best of times. Might keep an eye out for one at the scrappy if it turns out to be the module. But for now, the car works, apart from the engine cutting out at part throttle/ pulling away after idling in traffic from time to time, so I'm not too bothered. Just be nice to have a fully working car for the first time in years, although the badly adjusted clutch cable (PO) and worn synchro on 4th kind of stop that happening anyway...

Reply to
Stuffed

Also sprach "Stuffed" :-

Mine was very hit and miss. I susepct it hit various resonant frequencies and shook itself more or less. Five seconds soldering (and twenty minutes dismantling first) cured it.

Reply to
Guy King

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