MOT fail: Handbrake efficiency

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If it's the type with a toothed wheel and spring operated adjusting plate (Girling) make sure that the toothed wheel moves freely using a small screw driver on one tooth at a time. Then make sure that the adjuster plate sits snugly under one of the teeth on the toothed wheel. Replace the drum temporarily and operate both handbrake and foot brake a few times. You should notice that the handbrake lever operates at a lower position if the adjuster is working.

If the above doesn't work and you want a quick fix just rotate the toothed wheel a few teeth at a time and replace the drum temporarily each time until you equalise the bite with the other side. You might need to remove the 'lip' from the edge of the drum (if present) with a file to get it on once you've adjusted the shoes manually as described above.

It's worth getting the existing adjusters to work as described above because a new set from Peugeot will cost about £37-00p.

Cic.

You can gauge the equality of the handbrake by hand quite well, get both the wheels in the air and apply the handbrake, gripping the wheel and trying to turn should hopefully find both wheels locked solid, try with only a few teeth of handbrake pull and gauge equality, it is surprising how easily a difference can be felt. If you really cannot find a mechanical fault on the weak side then try swapping the drums left to right, I have found this works on those stubborn ones that you cannot see any fault with.

I've had good results in the past with giving everything a good clean with lots of brake cleaner (best bought in gallon cans, IMO) and cross hatching the drum a little with some 240 grit wet and dry paper.

TBH in something like the 106 with trailing arm rear suspension, it's very easy to tell if the handbrake is far out of balance from the driver's seat. You yank the handbrake at fairly low speeds and feel which side of the car dives...

Thanks for your help everyone.

I took the naughty side's drum off again today and manually adjusted the self adjuster a couple of clicks.

This evened up the handbrake nicely and seemed to satisfy Mr MOT.

I patched some blows in the exhaust and it's scraped a pass on the emissions test with borderline CO readings.

I'm doing a a bit of reading, looks like it might be a failing lambda sensor or cat.

It idles a bit lumpily.

Never mind, at least I am back on the road.

What where the emissions readings? If it's the Lamda then it'll be cheaper to change it than burn the fuel.

I don't have the results for the failed emissions test any more, but it failed on CO and Lambda readings.

Here are the results of the retest.

Fast Idle: CO .93 (fail) HC 52 Lambda 1.020

Second Fast Idle CO .30 HC 28 Lambda 1.005

It's passed, but it looks to me from these results like something could be wrong and might be worth sorting.

The car had new oil and air filters less than 1000 miles ago.

I've never come across a ratchet type auto adjuster which is even reasonably reliable. I'd rather they didn't bother but fitted easily accessible manual ones. Made from decent materials so they don't seize.

That looks more like it wasn't hot enough than either the lamda or the CAT.

Heheh, OK, thanks. However, it was 4000+rpmed out and about for much of the morning then the whole 8 miles to the testing station and then given some serious beans while stationary before being tested. I'd be surprised if it wasn't hot enough but I guess its possible.

A bottle of Forte was added for the final test for good measure.

It still idles a bit lumpy and hesitates sometimes when momentarily reducing throttle under acceleration.

I'll use it for going to work this week and report back on the fuel economy.

Inlet air manifold leak?

Interesting. I'll have a good go round the inlet system looking for signs of something obvious if it's stopped raining by tomorrow.

Is there a good way to check for vacuum leaks?

For instance, if it was positive pressure I'd sprinkle soapy water to watch for bubbles. (c:

(Altogether now): Carb cleaner!

Chris

yup squirt some carb/injection cleaner around & listen if there's any change in engine pitch. Don't know the car but if it has a map sensor check that vaccum pipe for any splits.

It's a late 1990s Peugeot 106 with a 1.1 litre engine run by a Bosch Single Point Injection system.

It's got various vacuum operated emissions control gubbins attached to it. Plenty of vacuum lines attached to the throttle body and inlet system but I'd be surprised if it has a MAP sensor? Anybody know better?

Will fire up the carb cleaner.

Thanks.

Bad form, but DUH! Yes, it probably has.

Check all the rubber vacuum pipes carefully - especially where they terminate.