MOT: Rover 218SD down. Now what? ;-(

So, 200,000+ miles, cost me £100 over 7 years ago and very little in between but now I think it may be the end?

I think the main bits are both swinging arm bushes (rubbers), the fuel pump leaking (I've mentioned that one here a while back .. it leaks from round the throttle input arm and I was quoted £100 for a new top cover fitted) and both rear arches are see though in a couple of places.

There was also mention of the handbrake (insufficient rearward movement / extension) and a couple of other minor things.

So, we still have the Belmont and the Kitcar and could be getting Dads Meriva so we aren't short of cars as such but the Rover is the only one with both a towbar and good at towing and is a pretty good load lugger considering it's only a hatchback (compared with my Sierra Estate that the Rover replaced).

In fact I'm about to go and get another 1/4 tonne of pea shingle and probably pick Mum and her mate up and drop them shopping (MOT expired tonight) but then what ..

I can leave it 'off road' at Mums for now but then what (just been insured and is taxed till the end of the month). Would it be best for me to run it in to the scrappy myself (with my trader mate) or get one of these people who keep leaving 'We buy your banger' people to take it away or what please?

Much as though I never considered a Rover it has been a real reliable worker for me and still turning in around 45 mpg.

I even ran the Hoover through it yesterday (I do it yearly if it needs it or not) and it scrubbed up pretty well considering. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. It's recently had a pair of exchange calipers, a rear box and outer sill.

Reply to
T i m
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Can you export it to Jersery?

Reply to
Adrian C

I would fix it and keep it. changing those big rubbers on the rear arms is tricky, but possible at home if you are handy. as to the pump I don't know. rear arches are a filler job. handbrake cable adjustment? worst way is a few hundred quid .

you get the best price by running it in yourself, but the collectors usually give a reasonable price.

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for an instant price

Reply to
Mrcheerful
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Reply to
Steve Firth

:-)))))

Reply to
David
[...]

NOOOOOO!

Usenet servers would fall over under the barrage of inappropriate questions!

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

I've actually got the fail cert now and it's a bit more complicated ..

Rear arches are rust near seal belt anchorages (so will need welding. It was partly that reason (welding up rusty tin) that I built the kitcar 20+ years ago)).

Fuel pump leaking.

Horn (I sometimes take the fuse out as the horn goes off when the immobiliser randomly kicks in).

Track rod end.

Hand brake no reserve travel.

Both Trailing arm bushes.

Advises on:

Play in steering rack.

Front seat belt buckle damaged (it was taped up and 'fine' but has been 'known' for a while).

Rear arches corroded.

Stone chip in headlight (had lamp repair tape over it for ages).

Oil leak.

Nail in nearside rear tyre.

Front number plate cracked.

Plus it looks tatty paintwork wise (bad lacquer from previous work pre me) and what with the random immobilisation thing (never when the engine is running) it's probably had it's day. ;-(

I've since phoned my local scrappy and if I drove it in he'd give me £85 for it and one of these guys who leaves his card under the wiper has said £150 on the phone.

Cheers. £136.48 so I should get my money back at least. ;-)

I've taken the towbar of and the Kenwood radio and other electric stuff out (I usually run a fused permanent live power outlet to between the front seats for all sorts of gear) so it's just to give them a ring. ;-(

Thanks again.

T i m

Reply to
T i m

They turned up bang on time, did the paperwork, handed me £150 (50 quid more than I paid for it 7 years ago ), drove it onto their truck and off it went.

At least I have some money to put a towbar on the Meriva now. ;-)

Thanks to all those who have offered me help on it in the past.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

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