[SOLVED] Nissan Micra running problems (air flow meter) (2023 Update)

Hi Everyone I hope someone can give me some advice,

I have a Micra Auto 1000 (Jap import) K11 model and it's running rough I have just had it serviced and the following was done : normal service (apart from the brakes as mechanic said he had neve done brakes on an import before so would not want to do them). and the Timing and it was still running rough, the mechanic told me it could be th exhaust sensor or the air flow meter. as one was about ?100 and th other ?900 we should start with the ?100 part. I didnt want to scrap the car if it was only to turn out to be the ?10 part (sensor). This was replaced and the car is still rough. I was not happy with th mechanic so would like a second oponion. It runs ok for a few min until warm and then can do some or all of these : stall , no power and only way to get it back is pump the accelaterato like crazy, engine revs go up and down if stopped at lights etc. Using too much fuel, The mechanic said it could be the air flow meter but I should get th complete throttle body assembly. What I would like to know could it b anything else or am I safe in just getting the throttle body assembly. I could take it to another garage but I will then have to pay out to get it checked over. I have found a man on Ebay who sells reco bits and has the throttle body for ?95 +p&p. I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help an advice would be appreciated.

Cliff

Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or jus changed for new or recon

Reply to
cliff100
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the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the connector to it!!

With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any variation is suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a position where it all works OK, this will last for years, believe me, I have done several !!

Reply to
MrCheerful

Can you use a soldering iron?

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It's a simple enough job, if you know how to undo a bolt, use silicon sealant and hold the cold end of a soldering iron...

Reply to
PC Paul

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Next one with the same fault I'll try that, thanks.

Mrcheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

Thanks everyone, I will have to wait for the weekend and have a go at the repair suggested. I like the instructions get hold of the cold end of the soldering iro (LOL) I will let you all know how my repairs have gone.

Clif

-- cliff100

Reply to
cliff100

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I just did one. Just make sure you use 60/40 tin/lead solder and not the lead-free stuff or you will be back with the dry joints that originally caused the problem.

John Weale

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Reply to
John Weale

Thanks for that as I would not have realise

-- cliff100

Reply to
cliff100

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Don't forget to send me my cut of the 'reconditioned throttle body' cost that you put on the invoice ;-)

Soldering tip: dry joints will usually be a matt grey colour. Good joints are shiny silver, even after a long time has passed. But you can't trust the buggers, you can still have a shiny joint that isn't making good contact.

Reply to
PC Paul

I have just re soldered the joints and am waiting for my son to get bac

with the silicone, can someone tell me. When everything is dryed e. silicone is the repair instant or has the engine got to run a while. hope I make sense, I didnt want to undo everything again and re solde if I had to wait for the car to run in or whatever.

Thanks Clif

-- cliff100

Reply to
cliff100

The silicone is used to provide a watertight seal to the cover plate. Allow a short while for the silicone to cure before running - then that's it.. The article recommends Silastic but any high temperature silicone should do - I used Tetrasyl form the local Autofactors rated up to 250 deg C.

John Weale

Reply to
John Weale

The electrical side of the repair is instant. You could even run it before you seal it to check, if you wanted to.

Reply to
PC Paul

I have now tried the car and although it has improved, it's stil

cutting out. I have since cleaned the plugs again and they show it wa running rich. I am off to buy a better soldering iron as the one use didnt seem to get the metal hot enough (free off a robot magaine my so had) I could not suck all the solder off and start from fresh. It woul only let me heat it enough to add some more solder. Having neve soldered before I will take everything apart again and try thi afternoon. What I did notice after the first repair was the car seeme to be running at a very slow idle speed. Can someone tell me is thi something that needs sorting after the repair, e.g gettng the ca tuned. I do not want to get it tuned if the repair has not worked an I end up buying a replacement Throttle body ?

Thanks for all the advice Clif

-- cliff100

Reply to
cliff100

Sorry Chaps me again,

I have had another thought and not taken the car apart again. I hav now found out the chap who first serviced it changed the mixture. have now had this sorted and the car is running fine. I have jus taken it for a run down the A2 approx 40 killometres, everything i running fine and one thing I found is whe the car was serviced The cha broke off one of the breather hoses which should sort out the fina kinks in running when I glue it back on.

you have all saved me so much time and money. Thanks again.

Clif

-- cliff100

Reply to
cliff100

Well at least you *shouldn't* have any dry joints in the throttle body now ;-)

Reply to
PC Paul

Could this cause a hole in the intake valve?

Reply to
Dorian

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