Oil Filter Removal Tips

An oil filter strap - the type that's a web strap with a bit that fits onto a 1/2" ratchet. Those chain wrenches just rip them to bits.

Alternatively, punch a hole in it to drain it out then get a chisel and take it to bits.

You could hammer a (large) screwdriver through it and then try to turn it. Be sure to put some oil on the new oil filter's ring before fitting it.

in order of preference: dedicated cup type wrench oil filter pliers (screwfix) reducing sheet ring oil filter tool (like a piston ring tool) reducing semi-solid ring tool strap wrench chain wrench very large jubilee clip round it to give purchase and use any leverage you can smash a screwdriver through it and use that as a lever cut off canister and use a punch and hammer to turn the remains chisel on outer edge near the engine

I've only changed an oil filter twice, but I used a "Halfords Professional Oil Filter Remover Band" (link below) which seemed to grip the filter very firmly. The steel band has small teeth which grip the filter, and you can tighten the band using the knob before you start applying torque to the filter.

=================================== Take your pick:

I prefer the three-leg one:

I recently bought one of these,for an entirely different purpose, but I'll test it at next oil change:

Cic.

I find I've never needed a special tool (except once, when I hammered a screwdriver through the filter and used that as a lever). This may be because I don't screw the filter on very tightly. I've never had any leaks.

Rob Graham

It's the smear of oil you put around the rim of the new filter that stops it seizing.

Quite so.

Rob

I've managed it before using water pump pliers.

Stick a screwdriver in?

On the rubber O ring you mean ? or the actual metal part of the oil filter ?

James ("James" ) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

The rubber. Just dip your finger into some clean oil and give the rubber a damn good smear.

And don't put the filter on any more than just "a good nip" hand tight.

James formulated on Monday :

The O ring is where they tend to seize up tight. The metal part (the threads) usually have plenty of oil still on them. The point is not to tighten it up too tight - just enough to seal is enough.

I see. Thats what I normally do.

I've got the three leg one but haven't tried it in anger yet. The one that looks like a cup that fits over the end worked a treat on the BMW motorbike with very restricted room around the filter. This one

appears to be made of cheese and I snapped two albeit trying to shift a Citroen sphere. I usually use a rubber strap wrench which I got from Screwfix or the screwdriver punched throught the casing. Recently I've managed to undo most of the car filters by hand which probably means I've been over tightening in the past.

Both bores of a shotgun.

I have an SP contracting steel band type (the harder you pull on handle the tighter it grips) which will shift most filters, but also a snap-on wind-up contracting band (you turn a threaded knob before using it as a handle) and that never fails to shift em.

I've never had any luck with the chain type ones- you need something with a wide 'band' to get masses of grip.

Also, grip the filter near the base- its less likely to twist into an ungrippable mess...

Tim..

Sometimes it's not sheer force that's needed. I've struggled with some filters to then find that they suddenly undo easily by hand. I reckon this happens when the O-ring is sticking just enough to bunch up acting as a brake, so the harder you turn it, the more it brakes. Releasing the force or trying to tighten it slightly lets off the "brake" allowing you persuade it open with more gentle pressure.

Not always though...

Take the engine out, hold on to the filter quite tightly, and spin the engine until the filter comes off. Easy.