Pad disc change piston query

Nope

Only if you've got some brake grease

It's easy to bleed. You probably don't need to but cracking the bleed valves when winding the piston pack makes life easier.

you dont wind the front pistons back, its the rears you wind back with a wind back tool, the fronts you squeeze the piston back into the caliper, there is no need to crack the bleed nipple if your just changing brake pads, it does help to remove the reservoir cap though when pushing the pistons back into the caliper.

Will copper grease work for this application, got a big old tub of it I'm trying to use :-) ... ?

I have a caliper reqind tool to hand. Without the tool how would you suggest I "squeeze" the piston back ?

I'm changing the discs aswell. Also been advised to remove some brake fluid hand as when you push then pistons back it will fill up and go everywhere. Then once done refill as nescessary.

seperate question to anyone:

Areas of greasing (just to confirm)

Back of pads, caliper pins hub face after cleaning it up

Anywhere else I've missed ?

Cheers

the only reason the brake fluid reservoir over flows is when the brake pads wear the fluid level drops & people tend to top the reservoir up, thus putting too much in, if its not been topped up at all, when you squeeze the pistons back in the fluid will rise back up to the level where it should be in the reservoir.

I have a proper tool for squeezing the piston/s back in, this one

but you can use a pair grips to push the piston back in or a g-clamp with a piece of wood covering the piston, to stop any damage to it. I take it when you mean grease you don't literally mean grease, you can use copper-slip, we buy our anti squeal "grease" in small sachets, one per brake axle brake change, don't smear too much on the back of the pads as it attracts dust & dirt which sticks to it, before you remove the pads look where they touch on the callipers, will give you an idea as where to put the anti-squeal.

No, it's no use on things that move regularly or rubbery bits. Some on the back of the pads is good though :-)

After cleaning thoroughly with brake fluid a smear of *rubber grease* (the red stuff) does no harm. But don't use any normal grease.

Ahhh, I guess I have to buy som,e silicone grease for the pins.

It is doable by hand - I've done it after refurbing calipers, but I wouldn't fancy forcing fluid back through the system. Generally the stuff in the calipers is the really filthy stuff, and the last thing you want is that lot going back to your ABS pump.

TBH I find brake bleeding a bloody nightmare. I'd be very tempted to take it to a garage and give them £30 to fit their pressure bleeder to it and not worry about it.

Copper grease.

Red brake grease.

If you really must. I wouldn't bother, but I would bother greasing the screw that holds the disk to the hub as I had to oxy the last lot off my car.

Buy an easi bleed. You've got a compressor.

I still don't find it that easy with a compressor. I just hate the bloody job.

You don't need a compressor - indeed it might be a disastrous way of using it if you let the pressure get too high. Use the spare wheel as suggested.

Indeed; I've found it works best at around 10psi.

Of course, the compressor is useful to re-inflate the tyre when you've finished... :-)

Chris

Personally I find it much easier to set the pressure regulator on the compressor than to piss around deflating the tyre. Which equally starts with enough pressure to blow the cap off.

Rubbish. Copperslip is fine for the pins.

>

Well if you're replacing the disc and pads, wedge a large screwdriver between the pad and disc and prise it open.

It dries out & goes sticky, it's an antiseize compound, not a lubricant. The oil it's suspended in will be briefly usefull.

I would imagine that if it prevented the pins from seizing in place it would be permanently useful...

Chris

Try servicing your car properly.