I have a 1997 306 XL with a deadlocked rear nearside door. All the other doors respond normally to lock/deadlock from the remote but this door will not open. The manual lock operating button will go up and down as the remote buttons are pressed but the door will not open either from the inside or outside.
Any ideas ?
Steve
Funny you should ask this Steve. I can't help you but I've got a mate with exactly the same problem!
We spent about two hours on Saturday trying to open the o\s door of his Pug, a tin of WD 40 and lots of locking and unlocking whilst pulling the door handle eventually got it to operate and the door then opened and closed OK every time.
However as soon as it was locked with the key, no amount of locking, unlocking and pulling the door handle would induce it to open again.
He's coming down to my place this week so that we can remove the complete lock assembly with my Torx socket set, to try and see what the problem is (I think that it's a 100 per cent certainty that it's definitely in the lock mechanism itself).
I am thinking that the probable cure will to replace the lock, although if anyone out there who's had this particular problem and can supply an answer then we would be most grateful.
The message from "Ivan" contains these words:
It's probably "a feature" and there's a trick somewhere. I /hate/ it when that happens. Blody designers - how dare they outwit me. I mean - I know it's not hard to do, but I don't think they should try so hard.
All bits of coat hanger wire from the handles, selinoid, lock barrel lead to the main lock, they will all pull and push but won't activate the opening mechanism on the lock.
As you say, probably a crappy stock feature with this particular model.
That 405 I bought for £2.20 had the same problem, the passenger door wouldn't open. As the car was going to the scrapper anyway, I wasn't too bothered about damage but saw it as a bit of a challenge. With the trim panel pulled off nothing I did would get it to release. It wasn't a problem with the lock - I reckon the mechanism itself was broken inside. So I resorted to brute force to try to get it open. Then some more. Sitting inside and kicking with both feet had the entire door distorted around the latch enough to get a 5ft breaker bar into the gap. Even that leverage couldn't shift it so I gave up. Seems they make 'em tough.
I don't know if it's the same as my 205; this has the plastic outer latch part pivoting on two cheap rivets which rusted up. This prevented the latch returning 'quite' far enough to allow release/activation of the internal mechanism. (Found after dismantling & cleaning every other part!) Dave
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