Primera heater fan

Most likely to be the fusible link. A failed/failing fan will sometimes cause this, so check to see if the motor is free to turn if you can.

Places like Maplins and RS sell the links for pennies, but the difficulty is in determining the correct temperature rating.

Chris

Yes it is the fusible link that goes HR. simply clean it off and resolder across the contacts. There are two fusible links on the resistor board so it's its best to do both. I had to do the same to mine two years ago. Trevor Smith

The message from "Trevor Smith" contains these words:

Damned safety features - more trouble than they're worth!

I agree. In particular, if the fan can operate in the max position without this extra fuse, then I will happily short out the extra fuse which should bring positions 1,2,3 back to life.

Now, is access easy ?

Thanks.

In the max position no resistors are in circuit. Thus, they do not get hot.The thermal fuse is not needed.

In all the reduced speed positions, one or more resistors *are* in circuit. They get hot. How hot depends on the load. If the fan motor partially or fully seizes they get hot enough to set the car on fire. It's happened, particularly to Mondeos... That's why they are fitted.

It's your car, it's your safety, but you said earlier you have the skill to change the fuse. The fuse will cost next to nothing. Why not change it?

Chris

Having fixed a Primera blower resistor a few years ago, my memory of it is that there aren't any fusible links as such, just solder blob links between lengthy tracks. These pcb tracks are the actual resistors, and the thermal expansion/contraction of the whole card eventually work hardens the solder which eventually crumbles. Resoldering the links should keep it going for another 5-10yrs.

If it's anything like the 4 Nissan's I've had. Remove glove box, should be a screw at bottom of each hinge. Unlatch it and pick up contents when it falls out. Resistor block is on front of duct between fan near door pillar and heater in centre consol. If you have air con it's near the fan and that small black box 2"x1/2"x1/2"clipped on the front of the duct is the thermo amp which controls the compressor clutch and costs £105. Undo 4 wire connector and 2 screws then it slides out.

I've seen Renault 21's fill the fan motor with water but it's the first time I've ever seen this. Last week I had the heater fan on my

140K mile H reg 200SX fail totally. It had been erratic for about a month and changed speed when going over road humps and round LH bends. Then it just stopped. After taking out the glove box and detaching the bar that screws to, the fan is held in by three screws and a bit of wiggling got it out past the kick panel. The fan has little extension blades below the drive disc. These suck air though the motor to keep it cool. The motor is fed air though a short tube that connects to the pressure side of the fan. There is no pollen filter. The short tube had been collecting finely chopped organic stuff that had gone though the fan and packed it into the bottom of the motor. The commutator for the motor is also in the bottom of the motor, it was past salvage. The secondhand replacement from a 65K mile G reg car was duly stripped and found to have some organic material in it but the commutator was clean and smooth. Yet another job to add to the annual service list.

Clearly I need a pollen filter or something better than the wire gauze that's currently on the ventilation inlet.

Don't cry when the car goes up in flames!

Rob

It doesn't need to be the car in it's entirety, I still remember the inside of my Capri completely filling with smoke when the pack burnt out, fortunately I'd just pulled off the M11.