Pug 205. Repair worth it?

I'd keep it going with those problems - unless the oil leak was really bad and getting worse. I'd do the rad swap, and possibly the glowplug relay.

cheers, clive

1) If it's wet at the back of the cylinder head, it's most likely the rocker cover gasket. Changing it is a pretty straight forward job. 2) Pretty straight forward on these from what I remember. 3) The relay has it's own built in timer, so it's most likely the relay that's faulty.

Provided the bodywork is solid, I'd repair it. 140k isn't that high a mileage for that engine.

I'd be inclined to agree - 205s are bomb proof little cars and i wish i still had mine, despite its many annoying niggles - none were ever terminal. The rad is a relatively cheap one if you want to buy new or from a scrappy. On the 1.1 petrol version it was a 30 min job to remove the whole lot and replace so I'd assume maybe 2 hrs work. No experience with the glow plug relay but it will be a straightforward swap, they always are.

Even to get a mechanic to do it wouldnt cost too much more than parts and a couple of hours labour. If you decide against it feel free to donate it to me :D

J

"Coyoteboy" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com:

experience

/AOL

I've got one on my drive, a 1.8D non turbo(sorned) all it needs is a F/OS wheel bearing, F/OS track rod end and F/OS Track control arm bushes. I did the left side last year. Great little car, I'll get it fixed for winter when I sorn the summer car, a ZX 1.9D that holds my camping gear.

1. New rocker gasket and sump nut washer, unless cross threaded. peanuts for new. Dead easy DIY. £6 for new rocker gasket, £5 for sump plug/washer
2. Drain cooling system. Remove air cleaner.Disconnect hoses. disconnect connector for thermal switch on right hand side of radiator. Remove radiator grill. Remove crossmember upper bolts, fan mounting bolts, front side nuts, put cross member to one side. Pull out upper spring clips and pull radiator clear, bottom of radiator is in rubber mounts. Easy DIY. £45-£55 for new radiator.
3. Unbolt relay from side panel, disconnect wiring, put wiring on new one, bolt back on. Dead easy DIY. £50-£70 new.

Scrappy parts where applicable will be a lot cheaper obviously :-)

Hi.

This is useful. Thanks.

Question 1: I've been to GSF. They only seem to stock a glow plug relay=20 for a "17D", but I've been told his is a 1.8D. Is it likely to be the=20 same thing? Pugspares are the same. They list a 1.8D 205, but only up to=20 Oct 1985. Everything else is 1.7. *IS* it a 1.8D? RAC search says=20 "Diesel".

Question 2: I'm guessing the lower oil leak is due to the garage not=20 having replaced the compressible washer? If so, that's penny pinching,=20 literally. They're only 30p each FFS!

Question 3: What's the coolant capacity, and recommended strength? While=20 I'm at GSF I thought I'd buy antifreeze. Is there a special technique=20 for bleeding etc. I've searched and found a reference to 8.3l. What sort=20 of concentration (my last 2 cars have been sealed for life, so I don't=20 actually know any more. I'd guess at about 50% Their price is =A312+VAT=20 for 5l. Reasonable?

Question 4: Coolant flush or not? Just water? It's been radwelded=20 (shudder). =A35 for a gallon. How would you flush? The old rad leaks like= =20 a sieve, but I don't want the radweld crap put into the new one (unless=20 I can help it!)

Question 5: As for 3, but oil. What spec? I've searched, and the=20 consensus is 5l of 15W/40. GSF have this for =A312+VAT. Would a motor=20 factors be better? (You can tell I've had to have my car serviced by=20 someone else for a while ;-) I paid =A325 for 5l of 5/30 for my last=20 Mondeo, but they'll now do the oil change + filter + coffee for =A325, so= =20 again, I'm a bit out of date.

Question 6: Fuel filter. GSF list 2, a "PURFLUX" and a "CAV". I know for=20 a fact it's got a Bosch injection pump, because it's tattooed on the=20 back of the neck. Any ideas? What's the procedure for the filter on this=20 car? Is it really worth it? Last fuel filter I did was on my Orion 1.6i,=20 which was a metallic cylinder with 2 push fit connectors. Previous one=20 was on a Daihatsu Fourtrak, and was like an oil filter on an inner wing,=20 with a drain hose.

Question 7: Anything else I can do while the bits are off? Obviously oil=20

• filter, fresh coolant, fuel filter (maybe, FIL doesn't know when it=20 was last done), air filter (again, doesn't know, but worth it for a=20 fiver).

If I had a BOL, I could answer these myself, but I don't intend spending=20 any more than is necessary!

Thanks.

Pete.

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XUDs came in 1905cc and 1769cc (did they do 2.1s too later?) - the 205 had the latter. PSA tended to call it a 1.7, Rover called it a 1.8. But yes, that's the one you've got.

cheers, clive

My 205 Diesel leaked oil from the rocker cover gasket at the front, I believe it can be a symptom of overtightening the 3 bolts that hold down the rocker cover. A new gasket was less than £20 and some mastic cured the leak for the rest of the life of the car.

The sump plug requires a new copper washer at every oil change, I've re-used them once or twice in the past but you're as well changing it for what it costs. The sump plug itself costs very little if the one you have is unusable, the washer about 50p.

I never had good results with rad-weld on mine, it ate radiators every

80k or so. Replacement is a piece of piss. IIRC it involved removing the cold air induction pipe, undoing 4 bolts to undo the slam panel (can't remember if the grille was attatched to that or not), undoing some disposable metal hose clips on the rad (which on yours may or may not have been replaced with jubilee clips, if they haven't just put new jubilee clips on), undoing the fan sensor, getting your feet covered in some rusty water, undoing 2 clips which hold the rad in and then lifting the bugger out. New rad was about £70. My car didn't have PAS, however I would hazard a guess that you can probably undo the reservior and rest it somewhere out of the way for a while.

Simple really!

Dunno about that one, especially after your description further down the post.

If the rest of the car is sound, and there's a good chance it is, once you've factored in whatever is wrong with the glow plug system, you've probably got it sorted for less than £150 at the very worst if you do the work yourself.

My 205 went happily to 195k before it was written off (peace be upon it) and I'm currently driving a 306 with a 1.9D non turbo, which has a bored out version of basically the same engine which is on 157k. Fix the engine up, keep changing the oil every 6000 miles and it'll probably go for ever.

(c:

Something like that yes. Do it next oil change.

Haynes manual will tell you. Oh I see you haven't got one. Ring a Pug dealer and ask? 30 to 50 % is about right. Unless you live somewhere really cold 30% is good enough. Again it'll say on the bottle what temperature range each concentration is good for.

Flush it after you remove the radiator. Or take both pipes off then flush.

I got my oil from Screwfix. 15W40 diesel oil is only about £8 a gallon and specced better than the engine needs. I used it in my Xantia for 3 years or

60k miles without any ill effect.

No idea but they aren't expensive. If it's like the Xantia (as it's the same XUD engine then it probably is) then it's just a matter of undoing 4 caphead screws with an allen key.

That's about it really. You probably won't be able to tell untill the winter whether the glow plugs need doing.

In Peugeot Diesels, 1.7 and 1.8 are the same thing. From memory it is

1769cc. Closer to 1.8litres I suppose but so named perhaps to avoid confusion with the 1.9.

Sounds very like it to me.

I only ever put 15W40 in mine, I just bought what was cheapest and had some sort of branding whether it be Halfrauds/Texaco/Castrol. Usually it was about a tenner for 5litres inc. VAT, but this is 5 or 6 years ago.

The fuel filter on my H reg 205 was a paper cartridge affair which went into a metal housing up by the wiper motor. The filter housing incorporated a manual priming plunger thing. I think there was a screw to drain water and/or diesel on the bottom of the housing. Personally, I never replaced the fuel filter on my 205.

Heh, IME you'll know when more than 1 has gone whether it's cold or not (c:

Clive George ( snipped-for-privacy@xxxx-x.fsnet.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

2.1's a different engine, I think. 12v. Used in 406/Xant/XM (also as non- turbo, but not UK)/605 and probably Synergie/806.

You may be right. My wife's 106 diesel starts instantly in this weather.

Try Eurocarparts.co.uk (or .com, i cant remember) - i found GSF more expensive for most things and had a few problems with low quality castings on things like water pumps that needed light machining to fit. Never had that with ECP parts.

snip

Personally I think it's worth using good oil (Castrol/Duckhams standard) & changing both oil & filter regularly, if you plan to keep it long term.

snip

IIRC there's at least two non-interchangeable types; both easy - basically drain, remove can, drop filter out / drop new one in & bleed air out.

Well worth replacing the rubber hose that goes behind the engine from the end of the metal pipe to the fuel tank up to the fuel filter. It always starts leaking air *in* at the worst possible moment - symptoms are poor starting, popping & banging, lots of smoke; sometimes confused with faulty glow plugs. Also the water hoses behind the engine, if they are on your model - I think it's a fuel preheater or something??

Dave

I've got one on a J plate. Mine leaked (seems fairly common). My leak was solderable once lifted out.

Unclip the two front fans, undo the bolts and undo all the hose clips and crap. It should lift out.

At that age, undoing the screws that hold the grill on should neatly snap the heads of the screws and leave you with a clip in grill.

It isn't really that difficult a job.

Warwick

Well, I did it yesterday.

Bolts on the grille were no problem. Neither were the ones for the air=20 filter, PAS reservoir or the fuse box(?). Only one I had a problem with=20 was the front passenger side vertical cross-member. The head had worked=20 loose inside the inner wing bit, but apart from that, all the bits=20 lifted out.

Undid the hoses, drained what little water was left, and the rad just=20 lifted out. How it was still working I'll never know! There was=20 virtually nothing left!

While it was out, took the oil filter off, sump plug off, new washer=20 (didn't solve the leak, so I think the sump is slightly warped), new=20 valve cover gasket, air filter & glow plug relay.

Start to finish (tidied up, filled, tested, out for a run, check for=20 airlocks) was under 3 hours.

=A3103 for *all* the bits.

GSF are great!

Pete.

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