At odd times, say every 30-60 mins or so on a long run, the revs die and
> the emgine cuts out for a split second - when driving it just seems to
> restart itself, when idling it simply stops dead - instantly, no choking or
> spluttering, it just stops and the rev counter goes straight to zero...
> It restarts fine, and off I go.
ok, I have replaced the dizzy, rotor, leads and tested the coil. I have a new battery. I have reset the ECU (not replaced, but still looking). I decided to replace the starter motor - suspect solenoid.
It still cuts out occasionally, mostly on the motorway at about 30/50 minute intervals. Normally, it will restart from the momentum, but today it didn't and I drifted to the shoulder. After three goes it fired up, and I drove the remaining 60 or so miles with no problems.
Generally they are pretty good. The usual weak points are the head gasket, small expansion tank (goes brittle and splits), crankcase sensor and fuel pump relay. It's rare, but not unheard of, to have ECU problems. The majority of 200/25 and 400/25 faults usually appear to be down to poor or a general lack of maintenance, you look after them as wit most cars and they will look after you. The TD engines are quite lusty for their vintage but the MAP/MAF sensors are a weak point (from personal experience). Also, changing an alternator can be a bit of a dog. If the temp sensor goes regardless of engine type the engine usually runs, but lumpy until it warms up.
With the crankcase sensor, they usually suffer one of two faults. The first is usually corroded contacts, and road spray always migrates up to the sensor to rot the contacts, more so in seaside areas (salty spray?). I've always felt that this part of the design leaves a lot to desire and reminds me of the other half's now retired old Mk2 Astra where the delco alternator had exposed terminal contacts making the car allergic to puddles, the alternator was hung over a wide open space in the engine bay. The second fault is that with age they tend to go intermittant in operation. The sensor tells the ECU at what point the engine is on it's cycle, usual signs that the sensor is unwell is the engine intermittantly cutting out or on starting the engine turns over but will not fire (as far as the ECU is concerned, in either case the engine is not turning and that's that, I assume that it's a case of "if I'm not running I don't need to run the injectors or fuel pump" and futt). If any of this sounds familiar then it looks like you have a sensor fault.
Parts are still available, you'll be pleased to hear. I know that people have derided the quality of the Rover offerings over the years but to be honest they are, provided you are ready to accept the weak points (and which car does not have them, look at the recalls for an idea of how good or bad they can be) they can be quite a good investment, especially as prices for good quality models can be reasonably low.
I used to have a 214si that cut out at random times. Replaced sensors, tried different ECU, Rover diagnostics, the lot, but still happened. Nearly killed me once as it cut out when I was overtaking a truck. So I went to a breakers yard, stripped out a complete engine loom and replaced the lot. Problem solved for =A325! Worth a try. Al
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