Rover / Honda driveshaft removal

Hi all,

I need to remove the driveshafts from a 1994 Rover 416 (same as a Honda Concerto, I think) automatic to replace a worn CV joint gaiter.

The Haynes Tome of Wisdom depicts a large screwdriver being used as a lever to 'pop' the shaft out of the gearbox, as it's retained in place by a circlip ('set ring') in a slot in the splines in the crown wheel. The Honda dealers' workshop manual (which Honda, bless them, saw fit to put in PDF form on their web site - top marks for this, Mr. Honda) shows the same approach being used.

Now, I don't know much about these things, and I've never had to do one of these before. It worries me, though, that I'll lever it out, and then discover that the circlip catches on the oil seal and damages it as it comes out. If I do get it out, I then worry that I either won't be able to get it back in again, since the circlip will presumably jam against the splines before it ever gets as far as the slot into which it's supposed to engage, or else it'll damage the oil seal on the way in (how does the circlip, which sits proud of the splines, go past the oil seal lip, which presumably is a tight fit against the shaft?). Haynes and Honda both seem to think that it's just a matter of pushing it in (but there again, Haynes told me that I could fit a brake shoe return spring by just 'manoeuvring it into position with a pair of long nosed pliers', neglecting to mention the 2 foot crowbar which would be required to get enough leverage on it).

I really can't see how this circlip retainer arrangement would work! Does anyone have any experience of this - is it really just a matter of levering it out with a big screwdriver and pressing it back in by hand, or will I need to practice my swearing reflex for a few days beforehand...??

Cheers!

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth
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Brian It levers out very easily and shouldn't damage the oil seal if you withdraw it straight. It pops back in by pushing up to the spline then giving the shaft a sharp tap at the other end with a hammer - protecting the shaft with a block of wood. Barry

Reply to
BB

Cheers, Barry. That's what I needed to hear - the word 'easily' in connection with a car maintenance operation! I guess I'll give it a go...

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth

That's a thought - I don't want it coming out at an angle and busting anything! I'll have a look and see if my toolkit can supply two appropriately gargantuan screwdrivers (I've never actually found a screw which required such a large screwdriver, but it's b****y useful for all sorts of other things requiring prying or levering!)

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth

Haynes recommend the same way for my Vauxhall Astra, but there is also a special Vauxhall fork shaped tool specifically made for the job; perhaps Honda also do something similar.

Reply to
ivan

Going back to the days when I could actually be bothered to maintain cars myself I had cause to remove the driveshaft on a Talbot Solara three times within 12 months and this used a similar retaining circlip. Big screwdriver wedged in-between diff and actual driveshaft followed by a sharp tug on the screwdriver always pulled it free and putting it back was simply a case of a sharp prodding action on the driveshaft. Never had any problems removing and replacing the driveshaft. Shame I can't say that for the rest of the car mind. :/

Dave

Reply to
Dave

i remember removing a drive shaft from my old cavalier a long time ago. It came out a lot easier than I was expecting, however so does all the gear oil unless you have the forsight to drain down the box

1st( or can plug the whole quick!)

The difficult part is seperating the ball joint from the suspension ( a hammer rarely is good enough for this job...) , once you have it out you can pull it apart , clean it all up and put the new boot on with some luvly new greese( it'll probably be full of grit and crap )

I thought these things lasted longer these days because I have never had to do one since.

Simon

Reply to
SimonP

There's a fari old liklihood that I'll forget to do that before proceeding!

Still, the transmission fluid is due for a change anyway, so I'm not that bothered about losing it, although draining it in a controlled (if that's the right word for what usually happens when I change the oil in a car...) manner would be preferable!

Yeah - I have one of those fork-type hammerable ball-joint splitters, but I seem to recall that these have a tendency to tear the rubber boots on the ball joints unless you're very careful, so I think I might invest in a proper universal splitter.

I think I read somewhere that doing them up again can be a bit of a sod, too. Must try and dig that post out...

I'm hoping that they won't be full of grit - the gaiters are looking a bit perished, but haven't actually split yet, and there's no clicking or nasty sounds from the joints on full lock, so I hope I've got away with that!

I'm not sure they do last longer or not, actually - my Renault Megane needed new gaiters at only 4 years old. I s'pose it depends on the quality of the rubber used, but the outer CV gaiters must take a hell of a pounding - forced to expand and contract at quite a rate as the car corners, and at a considerable angle. Bah - bring back RWD and universal joints!

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth

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